Finish - Stock 1923 Sterlingworth

[Johnm11]

New to this forum but not to firearms or firearm forums. I recently traded a Fox Model B 16 gauge for a 1923 Fox Sterlingworth in 12 gauge. I’m very happy to have a true Fox and happier to have the 12 gauge. The firearm seems to fit me well and despite the barrels being 2” longer (28”) it swings better. At least it feels that way to me. I’m considering cleaning the stock a bit. It has some engrained ‘dirt’ and it appears someone along the line has added some varnish or shellac as I can see drips. I know it isn’t polyurethane.

My question is, after cleaning what would be the appropriate finish? Photo research leads me to believe it left the factory with a spray on varnish. But one can never tell if the photos show an original finish or a refinish. The finish appears to be on top of the wood.

I take terrible pictures, but I’ll do my best to show you what I have.

(Edited to correct spelling errors - not my strong point)
Thanks Johnm1
Mesa AZ

[vaturkey]

This might prove helpful. Brian does a bunch of work on Foxes (and others).

viewtopic.php?f=15&t=6903&hilit=shellac

[Johnm11]

Thank you very much. Assuming Fox used the same finish on the Sterlingworth as the graded guns, this is exactly what I needed to know

John M.
Mesa AZ.

[Johnm11]

Thanks Vaturkey for the reference. I spent last Saturday pulling off the old finish/grime. Here are the result after 1 coat of amber shellac.

[Johnm11]

After 3 coats but before the Renaissance Wax. I haven’t waxed it yet.

[Johnm11]

Admittedly I take really poor photographs. It looks much nicer in person.

[Jeff S]

Nice job! Having done the work yourself will make the gun a little more "special".

[Johnm11]

The hard part was getting the old stuff out of the checkering. I try to remove as little as possible but it was impossible to clear the checkering without soaking the pieces and brushing vigorously with a soft bristle brush. It’s interesting how plain black walnut can be.

[BCole]

While it is wet and soft with stripper, gently scrub along the checkering lines using a brass brisel brush. Then dry with a hand towel. Repeat till the checkering is cleaning. The brass brush will not scar the checkering.

[Johnm11]

Thank you Bcole. I didn’t trust myself with a brass brush. I did buy enough denatured alcohol to submerge and brush while submerged. And that seems to have worked. The denatured alcohol softened whatever was on there. I try to remove as little as possible. Not really applicable in this case. But I also try use the ‘gentlest’ chemical. I didn’t use the acetone wash and may regret it as there is oil, both hand and gun oil, left under the surface of the wood. I suspect it will rise to the surface.