Mid 30's Fox Serly Re Stock

[AFOXMAN]

Figured I would post some pics of my project gun. I have been following this forum for a while and have not posted. I am a X NSSA Skeet shooter that now spends a ton of time on the sporting clays course with old SXS shotguns. I am currently working on a mid 30's savage fox sterly. I purchased the gun with a cracked stock and decided it would be a good candidate for more modern dimensions. I had Wenig duplicate the cracked stock with a mid grade american walnut. The dimensions were modified to allow 2 1/2" drop at heel. See attached pics below! Criticism is welcome. Please keep in mind this is my first re stock of any shotgun but defiantly wont be my last, I love the way these old foxes shoot. I still need to do a fair amount of smoothing and finishing before checkering

Tim

[AFOXMAN]

[AFOXMAN]

[AFOXMAN]

[AFOXMAN]

[AFOXMAN]

The top tang threading was stripped so i turned down some mild steel bar on the lathe and made a fillister head maching screw like the original fox part but using a 12-28 thread, then re tapped the top tang. the left part is my 12-28 screw and right is original sterly part.

[bbman3]

That is some nicely figured wood and looks like you did a fine job inletting it the final shaping is the hardest part to me.Bobby

[vaturkey]

Looks pretty good. I have zero talent in this area, but have watched a few folks who do. Consider putting some painters tape on the frame and taking down the sides a few thousands so its not as proud on the receiver. You might want to give some thought to doing a round knob as well as I believe you have plenty of wood available to do that if you so desire.

[Stan Hillis]

Looks really good so far. As Bobby said, pay very close attention to the subtle things involved in the final shaping ........ the shape and amount of "relief" to give the cheeks, the shape of the comb nose and the flutes there, the shaping and fullness of the grip, and the thickness of the comb ........... among many other things. I love shaping a stock. The hardest part is being able to "see" what you want it to look like when you are finished. Do you want it to perfectly mimic an original, do you want it to strongly resemble an original but with your personal touches, etc? This needs to be decided before you put the rasps and files to it, IMO, not as you go along.

Keep us posted!

All my best, SRH

[AFOXMAN]

Thanks for the positive input all!

-Bobby, this It will be time consuming getting the stock details correct, SLOW IS FAST will be the rule I follow to completion.

-VATURKEY, I will be taping the receiver before final finishing for sure. I have pushed my luck to this point with no issues.

-Stan, As for a goal or target stock I am struggling making a final decision. I personally love the CE/XE semi pistol grip (round knob) stocks with more advanced checkering. That being said, this gun is not terribly valuable and I shoot it allot. First and foremost, this gun needs to perform both on the clays course and field. I would imagine a stock resembling a HE grade would be a good move from this application. I am not concerned with the stock be 100% savage sterly correct. However, I would like all design touches to resemble Ansley's original work!

Ill Punt, what would the Fox Collectors Forum do with the stock style in my case? Again this is a mid 30's fox sterly, Extractors, 28" tubes choked Full/MOD

Other Items I am intend to add:
-Kick EEZ Sporting recoild pad (Silvers if i feel bad a about not being period correct)
-XE Escutcheon for improved forearm steel retention
-Full clean and polish of all internal components


Cheers,

Tim

[bbman3]

Tim sounds like you know what you want and got it covered. Bobby

[Stan Hillis]

Tim,

I understand exactly what you mean about wanting the shaping and features to resemble original work but not be a perfect duplicate. I actually completed such a project last year. You can go back and read the postings I did and see the pics here: http://www.foxcollectors.com/My%20Forum ... =15&t=7229

What you are doing is a fun project, and useful. Stocking a gun to your exact specs is so beneficial to good shooting. At the prices that a solid Sterly or A can be bought now, they're absolutely perfect for "customizing" to your personal tastes. My gun, in the link I provided, is now in Texas having a second set of 32" barrels fitted. I'm on pins and needles waiting for it to get home so I can start shooting it regularly.

PLEEEEZE ......... take lots of pics of the project and share them along.

All my best, SRH

[Silvers]

Looks like the project is coming along well. One thing to watch is the shape of the nose of the comb along with the flutes. Often gents will get the wrist too long and the nose too abrupt and high to look "Foxy". Check out some pics of original Foxes to calibrate. Also if it were me I'd get the rear top tang screw hole filled with that 12-28 and seal welded with micro tig, and retap it to a tight 10-32 as original. Use the "start tap" and don't run it completely thru. JMO but that 12-28 looks too large, not in proportion, and when finished off you're likely to see a small crescent in the thread.

[AFOXMAN]

Stan, FANTASTIC WORK on your Fox! The shaping you completed made a huge difference on the appearance of your sterly. I will keep pics posted as i continue to make progress. Unfortunately I live and work between two states slowing my progress down substantially. My shop is located in Michigan and I will be leaving for
life #2 in Montana for 2-3 weeks.

Silvers,
I will watch the comb nose shape around the flutes.
Its funny you mentioned welding the upper tang. The screw does look too big. You know you have spent too much time staring at the top tang of a fox when you can pick out 20 thou in tang screw major diameter. I was very close to tigging the hole closed and drilling and re tapping. After leaving the gun on the bench for a couple of weeks and contemplating my situation i figured making a new screw was less intrusive for the following reasons:

1. No risk to the existing case color. I really like the patina on my receiver and didn't want to re color!
2. The thread root diameter for the upper tang was actually oversize from the factory. I didn't even need to run a drill through to tap @ 12-28
3. I can always weld up at any point in the project


Does anyone know what size hole is required to install the escutcheon in the forearm. I assume a diameter equal to the root of the knurling would be ideal. Ill check before drilling.

I must say, I have been really enjoying this project. I have built everything from houses, cars, to ausable river long boats. This might be the most interesting project to date. I need to start looking for the next one!

Tim