Rib extension welding

[yavapaigunworks]

I was wondering if anyone had pictures of unmodified rib extensions that they could post up. My Sterly has the lever left of center. The lockup is still tight, but I would like to fix this by welding the bottom of the hole in the rib extension up and then filing it until the lever sits correctly. However, I have no idea if the shape that my rib extension is currently is correct or not. Any help is appreciated.

[Silvers]

Welding the engagement surface on the barrel extension is one of the last things to do, not the first one; even gunsmiths of long experience often can't get it right and the gun will partially pop open after firing. So you might be thinking, I'll put in a new locking bolt. That can also be problematic because many of the NOS bolts on the market aren't fully machined and when installed the lever sits too far right, and again the barrels aren't locked down properly. The lever on a factory Fox when new will sit just slightly right for max camming effect, and it doesn't take much wear or play to cause the lever-left condition. Since you already have your Fox apart I suggest you carefully study the mechanism from the lever spindle to the tip of the yoke and look for excess play.

Readers: I'm still looking for sorcerer's apprentices and gents who come here from Facebook to step up on questions like this one.

[yavapaigunworks]

Please pardon my ignorance, but why would welding the rib be a last option? I'm really more concerned that I reshape the rib extension correctly. I noticed that the right side of my rib extension appears beveled while the left seems flat and level. Is it supposed to be shaped like this? I'll post pictures in a bit showing what I'm talking about. I figured that welding and reshaping was a much better option than attempting to peen the extension, and much less work then fitting a new bolt. I don't currently have the gun apart, as it's going rabbit hunting with me this weekend. However, when I get back all bets are off lol.

[Silvers]

I reached out to give advice on looking for excess play first. Good luck with your work. Hopefully others will step up with answers.

Honestly my interest in doing involved technical Q&A's has waned. One question usually leads to more and more, and I just don't want to put that much effort into it at this point in time. However I will continue to contribute with short answers to occasional/random tech questions where I can help.

EDITED on 3/22 to correct grammar and for understanding.

[yavapaigunworks]

Thank you for your insights. I will be sure to really get in there to look for excess wear. I did happen to get the gun out and attempt to take a quick peek, but without getting the rotary bolt out of the receiver or a borescope, seeing inside the mating surface of the bolt is borderline impossible, and I was wrong about the barrel extension. It's curved up from right to left over the entire lower inside surface. It isn't a smooth curve though. Without checking out the inside of the bolt, I can't conclude that the barrel extension is the sole source of wear. I also haven't gotten inside to check out the lever spindle and yoke. However, while looking the rest of the gun over, I did find a loose spot on the top rib. I'm happy to have found this now, rather than while out hunting. Once I get back from rabbit hunting this weekend I'll get the whole gun apart and starting looking at every piece in detail.

[vaturkey]

Go slow as they say. Hard to put metal back on once removed. Be very happy if the barrels are good. Anything else can normally be fixed.

[Silvers]

Last reply here. If you decide to weld after eliminating any free play - here's a pic of an extension that's done and ready for fitting. I'm posting it to help because I've seen fellas just about ruin barrels by getting sloppy TIG welding done by amateurs. Good welders use the term "looks like birdxxit" and often such welding gets too high in the bolt slot and warps the rib extension. Also, keep in mind that the barrels are brazed together at the breeches and too much heat will melt the braze. Similarly the ribs are soft lead soldered. That dark spot at the top in the pic is machinist Dykem to aid when milling off the excess weld. This one needed buildup on the left side because some hacker had already peened it, trying to get the lever to the right.

[Mike of the Mountain]

I'd like to help with the tech advice but I am not qualified to do so. My knowledge lies in how these guns should work and what to look for in one of our vintage guns. Any repair knowledge I do have came at a price from professionals and they have said the instruction is for my use and not to be disseminated to "the public". If I violate that trust my days of instruction will come to an end, and I am not willing to sacrifice that education.

[Jeff S]

I think that is an excellent picture and it makes your point very clear. Silvers, thanks for posting it. And to all of the gunsmiths out there, don't worry, I'm not a welder and I wouldn't even try anything like this.

[Brian Dudley]

If the gun is tight, leave it be. It likely will remain that way for the rest of your lifetime. If not, then fix it when needed.

[yavapaigunworks]

Well, I can't leave well enough alone, but for good reason. I went ahead and contacted Jason Barden and bought a rotary bolt for the Sterly. I checked out the yoke and spindle, but didn't notice any excess wear. I spent some time in lab today getting the action apart and fitting the new bolt, as well as fitting the trip to the new bolt. All is good now. The gun locked up well before, so this was done strictly for appearance purposes. Here is where the lever sits now: Now that the lever is sitting in the correct position, it's time to strip the gun back down and get it ready for engraving. I'll start another thread under the custom fox forum to document it.