After removing the ejectors from both barrels I pondered how to get the broken pin out of the hole, as gentle bumping of the breech end of that barrel would not dislodge it. I soaked it for several days with a good, thin penetrant to loosen any oil and dirt sludge that may have hardened and might be holding it in place. Then, I placed a 25# block of plumber's lead on the ground and knelt by it. Holding the muzzles upright I gently rapped the breech end of that barrel on the soft lead ingot. I have found in my farming repairs that inertia will often dislodge something that is stuck better than other methods. It worked perfectly and the pin slid out onto the lead block on about the third tap.
Measuring the broken pin with a mike, and measuring a couple others that were sound and in other Foxes, I arrived at an average diameter for the pin. I looked around the shop for small finishing nails that appeared to be close to the size needed, or slightly larger. I remembered reading on here that Frank posted about using finishing nails for these repairs. I found just that, and the nail measured about .002" larger in diameter than the originals. I figured I could easily polish it down that much, if needed, with emery strips. I cut the head off the nail with a cutoff wheel in the Dremel tool, and dressed the burrs off.
Next, I set about getting the ejector itself ready to accept the new pin. Putting it in a well lighted vise, backside up, and with my opti-visor on, I could easily see the little round remains of the old guide pin. I dressed it off carefully with a 0000 file until it was flush with the back side of the ejector. I could still see the circle where the pin entered the hole. With a freshened up prick punch and 2 oz. ball peen I very carefully center punched the old pin remains. A very light tap made a tiny mark, enough to let me review the location and see if it needed any adjustment to be perfectly centered. I have found that by making a very light prick mark the first time, I can move it in any direction needed with the next tap simply by leaning the head of the punch (the part you strike) away from the direction you want the mark to move, and striking the punch just a little bit harder, which actually moves the prick mark in any direction you need until you are satisfied it is perfectly centered. I can get it very, very close to the center of a shaft or pin by doing it like this. Many years of practice I guess. So, the mark was made on the tiny pin "butt".
I had ordered 2 or 3 long drills of the proper diameter awhile back just for this purpose. The extra length is needed so that the drill chuck will not contact the end of the ejector stem before the hole is drilled to the proper depth. The ones I got are called aircraft extension drill bits, and though available in very tiny diameters, are up to 6" in length, plenty long enough for the job at hand. Working very slowly, with the ejector clamped in a vise on my drill press table, I drilled the old piece out, being prudent not to drill through the face of the ejector. The cut end of the nail was a little more loose than what you would call a snug fit in the hole. So far, so good.
Now, my attention turned, for quite some time I might add, to figuring how to hold the new pin perfectly aligned in the ejector to solder it. I read about a jig someone had made, considered that for myself, and decided to hold off on that since I am about as far from being a machinist as anyone can imagine. I thought for several weeks about how I could keep that pin perfectly aligned, and secure, for soldering. One day it hit me, the most perfect jig I could have for holding the two pieces to be soldered was already in my shop .............. the barrels themselves. But, how to actually hold them securely, I did not yet know. Looking at the barrels closely, a plan was formulated. I found that with both ejectors in place in the barrels, I could snug down the ejector retaining screw enough that it would hold the ejectors "locked" in any position from completely extended to flush with the breech. Okay. I knew that I had to keep the heat from the torch completely away from the barrels and ribs extension, and I needed some room to work as I soldered the pin in the newly drilled hole in the back of the ejector.
Yeah! That's it. Leave the nail long enough that it bottoms out in the guide pin hole, seat the nail into the newly drilled hole, with one finger hold that ejector tight against the nail (which can't go in any more because it is hitting the bottom of the guide pin hole), hold the other ejector "closed" against the breech, and snug down the retaining screw. The good ejector tight up against breech face, broken one extended about 3/4" to give room to work and to insulate the barrels from the torch flame. Shazam!, it held perfectly, and the whole setup was perfectly aligned, looking at it from all angles. The barrels were being held In a vise that is up high to allow for easy access to the breech area, muzzles up. What the heck, let's make a fire.Using a regular BernzOMatic propane torch, Silvalloy silver solder from Brownell's, and the appropriate flux smeared all over the area to be joined, I fired up the torch and began heating. Having lots of experience with regular brazing of steel, using my oxyacetylene outfit, I knew that braze would flow and alloy with the parts when the parts got hot enough. I hoped that silver solder would do about the same thing .......... and jumped in. When the parts got where I thought the temp should be to flow the silver braze I touched the Silvalloy strip to the joint .......... not quite, a little more heat, and the solder flowed nicely around the joint. I held the heat to it until I was sure the solder had flowed down into the joint all around, and let it cool down. No sign of any heat ever reached the breeches, as the flame was directed in such a way as to prevent this, easy to do.
There was a slight buildup of solder around the joint so, after a good cool down, I clamped the ejector, with the too long guide pin, in my work table vise and shortened the pin to just a hair longer than the pin on the right, original ejector. After dressing it nice and round, and polishing the new pin with emery strips, I carefully began to dress the small buildup of solder down, on the back of the ejector. I'm a nut I guess, but I love tedious filing like this, and have accumulated many needle files, clockmakers files, and others. Didn't take long to get it nice and flat, then polished with emery backed by a flat file. Done. (Big grin, but ... would it work?)
Reassembling the ejectors into the barrels, the new repair seemed to operate flawlessly. Okay, a judicious bit of oiling, and a test. Two AA fired hulls were dropped in, the hammers dropped on them, the barrels opened, and ............. Pop! both hulls flew over my shoulder and landed right together. Success is sweet.
This is lengthy, I know, but it is posted just to let those of us who aren't very talented at repairs know that things like this can be done in the home shop, and the satisfaction is huge. Moreover, we all know how hard Fox ejectors are to come by, and saving one from the scrap bin is always worthwhile.
Hope this is of interest to a few.
All my best, Stan
As rare as 20ga ejector parts are, it could have been much worse. Dewey Vicknair fixed that one, and when the other side went, the side of the ejector was so thin from the drilling that Dan Rossiter had to micro tig weld it to build the side of the ejector back up. Drilling through the face = BAD NEWS!