Stock broken at the wrist

[hoof]

I just got my first Fox, a 1926 Sterlingworth that is broken at the wrist. There was already a wavy flat nail in the head (I have read this could have been factory). I actually had to remove the nail as it wouldn't allow the pieces to go together properly. I am used to LC Smith guns, and there are almost as many tutorials on how to fix them as there are broken ones. Two kinds of Elsies you know, those with cracked stocks and those about to crack.

So what are the tricks to putting the stocks back together and keeping them from breaking again. I would post pics but photo bucket is giving me fits, hopefully soon. I am pretty comfortable with acraglass, and a fair "wood butcher."

Thanks,
CHAZ

[Twice Barrel]

Really need more particulars before a stock repair procedure can be recommended. The "Box Nail"
was more than likely a factory preemptive measure to prevent the head from splitting at the web and/or the rear of the upper tang.

Clint Meier in Lee Summit, MO is a good stock man and has fixed a coupe of Fox and L.C.s that were beyond my meager skills to repair.

[hoof]

I think there may be some wood missing inside, I will have to build a "dam" and fill it up with glass. I thought about using a bushing for where the through bolt goes up and down through the wrist.

I have a really dumb question, Without a bolt pulling the stock against the action what keeps the stock tight?

Thanks,
CHAZ

[spyder]

The tang screws effectively create a strong "handshake" - so to speak- around the wrist of the stock.

Ditto on Clint Meier for stock repair.

[Twice Barrel]

Wow that sucker is really busted. I would send it to Clint for evaluation but wouldn't be surprise if he politely told you that all the Kings Horses and all the Kings Men couldn't put that one back together again so that it could be used reliably. I would recommend you start all over with a readily available aftermarket stock. The are advertised on ebay and gunbroker for about $115.00 or so.

[hoof]

Since I figure I have nothing to lose I am going to take a run at fixing this one. I had the stock in acetone soaking for a little over a day, so I think I have the wood pretty well dried out of oil. I have seen all kinds of reinforcements put into stock through a break, but have also heard the area that is glassed will be stronger than the surrounding wood? I am using acraglass to "glue" the pieces back together, and then I may drill a few holes and glass reinforcement rods in place. I use a heat gun to thin out the glass so it "flows" into the grain of the wood, and all the nooks and crannies of the breaks and cracks. There is actually some wood missing (on the inside) behind the tang also, so I think I will put a bushing in the stock where the through bolt goes through, and fill the void with glass. If it doesn't hold up then I will look for a replacement, and I am only out my time, which admittedly as a gunsmith isn't worth much. I like to use electrical tape applied inside out to hold everything together. There is no adhesive against the wood, but you can wrap the tape very tightly and get good stretch and pull on the stock.

Wish me luck!





CHAZ

[hoof]

There was some wood missing inside


Used a straw to keep the through bolt hole, and built myself a playdough dam


Had to re-inlet a little bit when I was done, but it seems really stout


I thought that just two more lines of checkering would hide a bunch of the crack, so since I was already repointing it I just cut an extra two lines, and it did help. The first photo shows the extra checkering. Check out the top right portion, TERRIBLE checkering. I had to sand that little section off and start again, second time is going MUCH better.

CHAZ

[Silvers]

And now you come to a very difficult piece to retro fit, and have it stay put. Stock is missing the "pryamid" that keeps it tight against the back end of the frame, when the trigger plate screw and underlever screw are tightened. It should be just ahead of the hole for the underlever screw, where you have that big blob of acraglass or whatever it is. It's perhaps the most important bearing surface in the head of the stock. Pyramid is shown in this pic, inside the yellow circle. Disregard the blue dots, pic was taken for another purpose. Silvers

PS: you might consider joining the AHFCA. Lots of technical stuff like this is on the Members Forum.

[hoof]

I see now how that works, it bears against the opposite slope on the trigger housing. I asked earlier what keeps the stock tight on the action, I guess that would be it? It is acraglas in the stock.

I will have to make that piece and then glass it in. I don't have anything to use as a pattern. Could someone give me the basic dimensions of that "pyramid?" I may end up using my playdough again to make a pattern and then cut a piece to fit.
Thanks,
CHAZ

I had the stock on to re-inlet and it was really tight on the frame, I am very glad for the info or I wouldn't have even known what I was missing.