Sterlingworth safety difficult to move...

[mollow]

The safety on my new (1913) 12 gauge Sterlingworth engages and disengages crisply, however it takes too much thumb strength to do so. As I will be using the gun in the field, I really need it to operate more easily. It's been soaking in wd-40 and the like for about 7 hours and there is some improvement, but not enough. Do I give it more soaking time or is there something in the mechanism that is worn too much? If so, can it be repaired or replaced?

[james-l]

Is the stock removed? If not, you should remove it and clean the stock recess and safety, also check the auto safety bar to make sure it is not binding. Check to be sure the safety mech. is not binding in the stock recess or the triggers when the action screws are tightened.

Jim A.

[marine.802]

I just repaired a ssterlingworth with a similar problem. You need to remove the stock (great pictorial guideline provided on this sight) and inspect. You may have dirt etc interfeing with the slide, spring etc. or you may be having problems with how the triggers engage the safety. After revoving the stock put back the screws, sears etc (without the stock) so you can visualize the operation and relationships. One other possibility is that someone has jacked the tang screw in an attempt to imatate a large beast. Try backing off the screw about a 1/4 turn. Give me a yell if you need more help (dedrisco@myfairpoint.net).

Semper Fi

Dave Driscoll

[mollow]

Jim and Dave-- Thank you for the responses. I had a pretty good feeling I'd be having to get to the parts for inspection and cleaning. I've not done it before on an old side by side, but you're right, the tutorial from this site is good. I need to procure a brass punch first.

I guess I'm most concerned with what the worst case scenario would be. Is there scenario where the safety could never work smoothly? Or is it just a matter of diagnosis and then proper solution. I like the gun and don't want to return it if it's fixable.

I will also try to loosen that tang screw 1/4 turn. Rear tang or forward one?

I appreciate the invitation to contact you folks if I get into trouble taking the stock off. I'll let you know what I see, once it's apart.

Mike Mollow

[Twice Barrel]

I guess I'm most concerned with what the worst case scenario would be. Is there scenario where the safety could never work smoothly? Or is it just a matter of diagnosis and then proper solution. I like the gun and don't want to return it if it's fixable.
Mike Mollow

Mike don't fret there are some really good Smiths out there that can repair and/or make any parts that are necessary or make the appropriate adjustments. Fox guns are prized for their strength, simplicity and reliability.

[marine.802]

I would not worry about it being none fixable. Once you have it apart you will be able to see how it works. I was refering to the rear tang screw. Rember the gun was designed by a genius and has outlasted most cars built in its time.

Semper Fi
Dave

[mollow]

Thanks for giving me that peace of mind. I ordered tools from Brownell's and look forward to getting the stock off and safety mechanism exposed.

Mike

[FRBRIT]

After you get the stock off. Be sure to clean all the WD-40 you've been squirting it down with out of the action and the wood. WD-40 is probably the worst lubricant on the market for guns. It is a rust preventative " Water Dispersant = WD" and not a very good lubricant. Over time it will evaporate and leave a stcky residue that will actually make the action more gummy than it is now. The other concern is oil soaking of the wood. The internals of a gun should never be lubed with a spray can with the gun assembled. This leaves excess oil in the action and when the gun is stored the excess oil will wick into the wood and slowly rot the wood away.

Use good quality gun lubricants on the moving and contacting parts of the action and then use only enough to help prevent wear of these components.

Just a helpful hint to help keep this old gun around for a long time to come.

[marine.802]

Amen to that. I use a product called Breakfree, it has a silicon component that virtualy is absorbed by the metal. Go lightly as there is as always "too much of a goodthing".

[mollow]

Thanks FRBRIT and Marine.802... those responses actually answered the question to my nagging feeling about too much oil and such. I do have Breakfree and will only use it sparingly. Is there a way to "dry out" the stock after being inundated with oil?

Mike

[marine.802]

There are as many methods as opinions. I use Acetone.BE SURE TO USE IT IN THE OPEN AIR OR IN A SUPERBLY VENTILATED AREA. uSE METAL CONTAINER(S) AS IT WILL DISOLVE PLASTIC. Place the stock in a shallow pan and and pour in enough acetone to cover it. I let it sit for an hour, take it out and let it air dry. Inspect and repeat as needed. Please dispose of the excess properly and remember it is flamable!

I have also used ovencleaner. Again outside spray it on let it sit and thaen remove with a stiff bristle brush. Flush with water and then inspect. Repeat as needed. Rember to wear eye and hand protection for both of these procedures.

Semper Fi

Dave

[mollow]

Thanks Dave.

Mike

[mollow]

OK, I followed the recipe on this website and took the action off the stock. Can I assume that if I soak the stock in either acetone or oven cleaner that the finish will come off?

[Silvers]

Yeah that's a good assumption. If it were me I'd blow off the inletting cuts using a large volume of air (air compressor) rather than a canned air thingy such as used for computer keyboards. Be sure to wear safety goggles and heavy gloves, watch out for where the WD 40 residue will be blown. Then clean up the inlet cuts using methanol (wood alcohol) or real turpentine on a Q-tip. Both can be found in the larger paint stores. N.B. that both solvents are flammable, again... no smoking, open flames, etc. Be sure to keep the solvents off the stock finish.

So... did you find the safety pushrod is tight in its carrier hole in the stock? Silvers

[mollow]

Thanks again for all your help. I see the way the safety works. It's not gunked up with dirt, it just has that "bump" in the metal to go over. Should I be thinking about flattening the spring (bow) a little so there's less tension or slightly file down the bump? Or something else I haven't thought of?