Fox Collectors

I just wanted to shout a big THANKS to Tom at the fox collector booth on Friday.

I was having trouble with my 12 Ga Fox during the event the safety would come back on between shots. When I mentioned this to Tom he mentioned to check that the rear tang screw was tight and that you had to remove the trigger guard to expose the screw.

Well I was giving my 12 Ga Fox a proper cleaning after work and noticed that the top tang was a little proud of the wood where before it was always flush with the wood. I carefully removed the wood screw and rotated the trigger guard and sure enough the rear tang screw was loose.

I tightened her up and now the top tang is once again flush with the wood. I hope this resolves the issue but I'll have the gunsmith check it just in case.

Thanks Tom much appreciated!

Dennis

I just had this happen to another one of my Fox guns. This screw seems to loosen up after extensive shooting. I was wondering if any of the Fox folks who shoots clays ever use some thread lock on this screw to keep it tight?

brushbuster wrote: ↑Fri May 30, 2025 4:02 pm I just had this happen to another one of my Fox guns. This screw seems to loosen up after extensive shooting. I was wondering if any of the Fox folks who shoots clays ever use some thread lock on this screw to keep it tight?

I would think some Loctite would be just the ticket for this.

Years ago one of my double gun mentors taught me the first thing you do after buying a "new" gun and its clear you own the gun BEFORE you shoot it is to go over the forend and action and using the proper screwdriver bits, tighten EVERY screw to the proper tension. The screws may not "qualify" (e.g. align in an axis north-south or east-west) but these are alignments that can be adjusted later for mechanical integrity and cosmetic effect.

Over the years I encountered only 2 or 3 examples of critically non-secured screws, but the effects on trigger malfunction, safety integrity and especially automatic ejector function and efficiency were indeed dramatic! Also you have to realize that many times you are dealing with 100-year old wood anchoring screws and complete lack of lubrication and surfaces meeting properly in many cases. My best case scenario was probably a1939 Savage 16 ga. SKUGG that hadn"t had a rest for more than a weekend since it was made; my worst was a near-mint XE 20 that sat in a second-floor hall closet in a farmhouse in MO since at least the end of WWII. The SKUGG took a hit of Ballistol spray and went right into the grouse woods; the XE 20 was dry as a bone with congealed oil and grease at the joint roll and throughout the ejector train. Careful cleaning and modern lubes brought it back to new functioning condition. We have to pay attention and treat them right! Kevin

Usually when tightening the rear tang screw, the end of the screw shank will protrude beyond the frame tang due to drying and compression of the wood fibers over the years. It should be flush. That doesn't look right and its edge can catch on your finger tip when working the safety. The end of the shank can be shortened but that in turn removes the fancy factory cross-hatched scriber lines. Best solution us to use a shim washer either commercial or homemade between the screw head shoulder and the rear tang counterbore in the trigger plate. Multiple thin washers may be needed - trial and error fitting - and in extreme cases the head of the rear tang screw head must be slightly filed/ground off so that the trigger guard tang can be properly seated. Do it right! frank

My problems with safeties are a result of a loose screw somewhere else.

Stan Hillis wrote: ↑Sun Jun 01, 2025 7:16 am My problems with safeties are a result of a loose screw somewhere else.

Yesterday I was shooting 5 stand and 3 times I opened the action to drop a single shell in and all 3 times I forgot to take off the safety before swinging on my single and squeezing the trigger. I blamed Old Timer's disease.

Update to this. Was shooting the flatside on Saturday at 5 Stand and after the first shot the safety would go back on safe. Continued to use the gun and on double's I'd shoot the gun and then push the safety off safe while swinging on the second bird. Actually shot very well, but I had them switch from doubles to "on report doubles" to allow a bit of time to get the safety button pushed off. Anyway, got home and tightened the screw after rotating the trigger guard. Found out you can actually overtighten that screw because after I swung the triggerguard back and tried the safety it wouldn't budge a lick. Apparently had it too tight. There is a fine line where everything works correctly apparently. Test will come next weekend when I shoot it again. I will have screw drivers with me this time so I can tighten or loosen that screw as required.

PS. Like Sporn's mentioned, Ballistol is a good friend at my house. Love the stuff. German's got it right IMO.

My Winchester model 21 is very finicky when it comes to the safety re-engaging if the trigger gaurd screw is not set just right.

If it happens in the field it can be a real pain if you don't have a set of turnscrews. I keep a cheap set in my truck just in case. Thankfully, I have only ever had to use it once, although Silvers did also use it at Hauseman's once to help with a Fox spring.

I agree about Ballistol Tom. It truly is the only solvent/cleaner/preservative I use that works as advertised. Some people complain about the smell but I don't find it offensive.

As much as I love Foxes, a very close second are Lefevers. A safety which, with a turn of a screw, can be locked off and instead of a roll pin, has an adjustable, compensating ball to take up wear.

Yeah my A Grade 12 is going to G&H and I’m going to have them tighten them up maybe with some non perm thread lock. My A grade has the original pad which is pretty worn so I was going to have them put on a silvers orange pad and rebalance the gun a little.

It was pretty annoying when the my safety came on during the Bo Whoop!

What's been discussed here is a good expedient for a relatively quicky fix but there's a caution. Overtightening the Fox tang screw can compress the very small wood bearing surface that's underneath the top tang and also put a slight bend in the tang. And while that may make the safety button operation more positive a better alternate is to remove the stock and then the small flat spring on the underside of the top tang below the safety button and slide. Most anyone with some mechanical ability can do that. There's a small pin that retains the spring and you'll tap it out. Use something like a 1/8” dia flat end punch and be sure to hold the spring when it comes loose. All easily done. Then use your fingers to put more of an arc in the spring which in turn will increase its tension. Don't overdo the bending, just a little. Replace the spring and pin and reassemble the Fox, and you should be good to go with the safety slide less likely to jump the 'Fire" detent under counter-recoil.

Here's a handy pic of the setup on a Drawbolt Fox; the safety spring/pin setup is the same on all AH Fox guns. Safety slide is forward in the "Fire" detent in this pic. The "Safe" detent is to the rear = to the right in this pic. The retaining pin is underneath the flat spring. frank
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