Cold blue for minor touch up

[brushbuster]

Hello all,

I have a Sterlingworth with barrels that overall are in pretty decent shape.
However, there are a few marks on the barrels and a small rub mark about the size of my fingernail that I see every time. I was hoping to be able to touch up the spots vs a full slow rust blue of the whole barrel. Has anyone found that any one cold blue that worked better than any others.

Thanks in advance
Dennis

[Bob Jurewicz]

No responses yet? Many think it is taboo to use cold blue. I do not. I have an assortment of brands and the one that I like best is "Van's Instant Gun Blue". Some steel does not respond instantly to application so you have to keep working on the surface to be treated and assure it remains wet until you are happy with the color level. Once complete a wipe with oiled rag completes the process. The results are usually long lasting and match well with the original blue.
Bob Jurewicz

[bbman3]

Brownells. Bobby

[brushbuster]

Thanks for the reply much appreciated!
I have never used cold blue but figured it would be interesting to at least try it and see if I can hid the scratches a bit and somewhat match the bluing. If I don't like it I can always have the barrels redone.

Thank you
Dennis

[Brian Dudley]

You can get pretty good looking results with some cold blues. But the metal must be very clean, and using some heat does not hurt. But cold blues are not really very durable.

In your case, if the marks you mention are bare white steel or shiny, you can certainly reduce the look of them with cold blue. But it would be difficult to get them to completely blend in with the surrounding rust blue. But it is better than nothing. I have had good luck with this for scratches. Or for example if a gun had a beavertail forend on it and the wood contact wore the blue off in spots and then a new splinter was put on it, the worn spots can be touched up to make it so they do not stick out like a sore thumb.
Using a very small Q-tip, or something of the sort is best. I have a number of these very small pen point swabs that are from the automotive world, for touching up clear-coat scratches. They work great for getting the blue into small spots and minimizing getting it on the surrounding areas.

Anyway, I personally have found that Brownells Oxpho-blue is very good, it works fast and gets darker color.

[brushbuster]

Thank you for your reply and advice much appreciated. The blue is on order and I’ll post some pics if it’s not a complete disaster.

Right now I’m giving the wood a very light refresh it almost looks like the previous owner started to strip the finish but never completed. It was almost a marmalade color and I could see the open pores and feel the roughness in the stock.

I started with some 0000 steel wool and mineral spirits and gave it a cleaning it’s amazing the crud that came off that stock.
Once that was completed I started with a very, very light sand with 400 grit and a little Timberluxe making a light slurry and wiping off the excess. Next after drying a week I used 600 grit again with Timberluxe wiping off the excess.I’m letting that dry for a week then I’ll do some light top coats with Timberluxe with a light 000 steel wool buffing between applications. It looks much better already and the stock is much smoother than when I received it so hopefully it will work out.

Dennis

[Stan Hillis]

That is an excellent stock finishing technique, Dennis. I have a Parker that was done that way, with Pilkington's stock finish, and using his sanded in finish technique, and it is just gorgeous. Some great things about it is that it fills the pores completely, you can control the amount of gloss you want as you progress, and it seems to me to be very durable and protective. I have learned that Pilkington's finish is a 50/50 mixture of solvent based Spar Varnish and 100% pure Tung Oil. I'm about to start a Sterly Ejector gun with that same type finish.

Best of luck with the bluing touch ups.