Recommendations for preserving Fox case colors?

bamboozler · Post by **bamboozler** » Fri May 29, 2009 3:24 pm

I've used Galazan's Case Color Lacquer successfully. I apply it with a 1/4" artist's brush, dries in a couple of minutes without streaking or runs. The product will leave a slight amber hue to the metal, which is not objectionable to my eyes.
http://www.csmcspecials.com/SearchResul ... earch.y=13

Twice Barrel · Post by **Twice Barrel** » Fri May 29, 2009 9:59 pm

Any good spray on clear lacquer will work well as long as the surface to be treated is properly prepared. I use acetone to degrease the metal to be treated and use two very light coats. I have also had good luck using Birchwood Casey Tru Oil cut 1 part true oil to 20 parts mineral spirits and applied with an artists brush. If you need to retreat strip the old finish with acetone and start all over.

scaupman · Post by **scaupman** » Sat May 30, 2009 9:30 am

eightbore · Post by **eightbore** » Sat May 30, 2009 9:58 am

Oscar Gaddy recommended a Behlens spray product but I'm not sure of the exact designation. Resale? No problem, they were laquered from the factory, at least the later ones were.

Silvers · Post by **Silvers** » Sat May 30, 2009 10:35 am

It sounds like you have a high original condition Fox. I understand wanting to retain the factory case colors insofar possible but if it were my collector grade gun I wouldn't be cleaning the frame with acetone or any of the ketones unless I was sure of its reaction product with the ferric carbide in the case. I don't want to sound too technical, using acetone may be OK, but I haven't researched it myself.

Applying lacquer or similar products is primarily a means of keeping hands and fingers from wearing on the case, and chemicals/contaminants on the hands from reacting with the iron and case carbide. Usually high-condition collector guns aren't used that much, if at all, so renewing or applying lacquer may not be all that important.

Oft times you'll read where sunlight may damage case colors but personally I'm not so sure of that. All this is just my opinion of course. Silvers

Twice Barrel · Post by **Twice Barrel** » Sat May 30, 2009 11:53 am

It has been my experience that you lose case colors from two processes, oxidation and friction. So long as your solvent is not a oxidizer and you don't rub the finish off you are good to go. If you don't want to use acetone use MEK or common brake or choke cleaner to dissolve any oils from your hands or to remove old lacquer.

As far as application goes I would disassemble the wood from the metal before applying the lacquer.

Researcher · Post by **Researcher** » Sat May 30, 2009 12:05 pm

Dr. Gaddy seemed firmly convinced, in the conversations I had with him, that sunlight had nothing to do with degrading case colors.

scaupman · Post by **scaupman** » Sat May 30, 2009 1:11 pm

Twice Barrel · Post by **Twice Barrel** » Sat May 30, 2009 1:55 pm

If you are not comfortable disassembling the gun yourself you might consider sending it to Buck Hamlin up in Pevely, MO for a cleaning and application of lacquer to your case colored action and forend iron. He is reasonable and pretty quick if he can work your job with his other restoration and repair work. He did what amounted to a full restoration of a neglected but functionally sound Lefever G grade and it functions and looks like it did 98 years ago when it left Lefever's shop in Syracuse.

bamboozler · Post by **bamboozler** » Sat May 30, 2009 4:34 pm

scaupman wrote:Well, that is interesting that case color fading from sunlight may be an old wives tale!

I do have a high condition Fox that I would like to shoot a litttle bit at the gun range on occasion, or perhaps use on an occasional pheasant hunt, but my concerned is preserving the case colors.

I do not want to dissemble the gun to apply lacquer as the screws are perfect and I want to maintain them that way too.

It seems a shame to just keep it in the gun room and not shoot it occasionally!

Thanks for all the input and good shooting.

scaupman,

I'm not saying spraying on a protectant is a bad thing, but bad things can happen when removing the stock and forend from the metal, and I wanted to avoid the possibility of anything going wrong. So let me say, there is absolutely no need to remove the wood from the gun. I have applied Galazan's Case Color Lacquer to a couple of my guns without removing the wood without any ill effects. I removed any existing oil from the metal with Birchwood Casey's Cleaner-Degreaser using a Q-tip and a cotton ball. I was mindful of not getting it onto the wood, (if I did I had dry cotton cloth nearby to wipe it away). I then thoroughly rinsed away the Cleaner-Degreaser with clean tap water, wiped it with a clean cotton cloth and then let air dry for several minutes. Then I applied Galazan's Case Color Lacquer with a 1/4" camel-hair artist's brush. The CCL flows on evenly with the brush and you're able to apply it very thinly without any streaks or runs, it dries in about a minute or two--so if you want you can apply another coat just a couple of minutes after the previous coat. If you don't have a rock steady hand when applying the CCL and get a little on the wood just have your clean dry cotton cloth handy to wipe it away.

bamboozler

jmc · Post by **jmc** » Mon Jun 01, 2009 2:18 pm

I recall a similar thread on the DGBBS where Steven Dodd Hughes commented on the wear and tear of case color hardened surfaces on one of the A.H. Fox upgrades he featured in his book "Fine Gunmaking, Double Shotguns". The Hughes Fox showed pretty significant loss of color on the action over a relatively short period of time. I don't recall what he said the combination of factors were that contributed to the loss but the thread may be interesting to search for some added perspective albeit it on a re-case colored gun.

-jmc

mike campbell · Post by **mike campbell** » Mon Jun 01, 2009 7:14 pm

By far the biggest culprit is abrasion. If you want to be ultra cautious , there are manufacturers who tout their lacquers for UV protection, so it should help with light fade as well.

If you're interested in preservation, coating them with anything is well worth the effort and cost. Some finishes will add a bit of yellow color and all will brighten them somewhat.