Repairing a forend lug

[Stan Hillis]

I own a 16 ga. AE Philly gun on which the forend lug had been filed down, for some unknown reason, before it came my way. In use, the top part of the "hook" shape broke off. There is just too little left to try to salvage it. It will have to be replaced by one means or another.

Since the ribs and barrels are in such good condition, bluing included, I am considering ways to put this gun back in use, in sound condition, without going through the expense of removing the ribs, and soldering on a completely new lug, then relaying the ribs, plus a new blue job.

I'm open to suggestions from knowledgeable Fox men. One thing I have considered is . . . . would it be possible to cut the old lug off near the base and silver solder on another new one. Could a heat sink be built around it to protect the original solder from loosening? One other consideration if the previous one isn't feasible . . . . Would it be possible to dovetail a new lug onto part of the base of the original one, then soft solder the dovetail joint so as not to generate quite as much heat as the silver solder would require?

If there is no other option but to go the strip and totally replace the lug route, which again will involve much greater expense, I need to "get my mind right" and accept that for a future course of action. But, I'd like to explore any and all other options first.

I'd very much appreciate some wisdom in this regard. If some good, close-up pics would be helpful I can do so.

SRH

[Jimmy Goodtime]

While I am no expert and will defer to any more knowledgeable members, I would offer that I know a man here in GA that does micro laser welding. Seems to me you could have him build up the hook or weld on a new hook to the old base and then you could file it to correct shape/fit and dress it up. Should be no more heat introduced than silver solder and likely less. The weld should be stronger as well. Again, I’ll gladly defer to better informed members. Just a suggestion and I’m glad to pass you his information if warranted.

[vaturkey]

Bill Schwarz in GA should be able fix it. Mathew Begley can fix it also. Mathew is in Ohio.

If you are going to the Southern. Mathew Begley will be there and also Jon Hosford. They could take a look and give you some options.

[Silvers]

Easily done by a good man with an oxyacetylene torch, a medium sized brazing tip, a heavy vice and some scrap steel for heat sinks. The brazing outfit is a MUST for quick/concentrated high temp to melt the braze in just a few seconds, and before cooling just as quickly with wet shop rags on standby. I've done three of them now on barrel lugs that were goofed up by guys trying to improve the forend fit, or to use the standard forend latch with a replacement and thicker beavertail forend. I use Brownells Silvaloy 355 silver braze ribbon which requires more heat and is much stronger than common silver solder. Two layers of ribbon and its flux are spotted between the lug and the shoe before the rapid heat-melt-cool. Here's a small smattering of pics for info.

Just to show what can be done with some skill and equipment, and without waiting in some ‘smith’s queue and likely being pressured into rib relaying, rebluing, etc. Readers please note: this has worked well for me but I'm don't do this type work except on my own guns.

Stan, I would think a small piece of steel can be attached a bit more easily to build up or extend a broken barrel lug. frank
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steel formed to make a "shoe"

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top view of heat sinks, barrel shield and clamp, ready to heat

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brazing complete, sides and then its top surface being filed, then ready for fitting its locking surface

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fitting forend latch is in process, you'll want a tight fit and without the finger piece popping down upon recoil

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fitted and spot blued, DONE

[DarylC]

That's just as good as it gets. Nice job Frank.

[Stan Hillis]

Sorry for being tardy in replying, but yesterday was hectic. Nonetheless, I appreciate the responses very much.

Frank, thanks once again for your generosity in sharing your expertise in so clear a way. Excellent pictures and explanation.

I've had 50+ years experience brazing and soldering but was hesitant to try this without having the voice of experience guiding me. I now have that.

I will be going forward with this sometime soon. When I do I will document it with before, during and after pics.

Thanks again, Stan

[Stan Hillis]

In the interest of clarity, and for the sake of others who are interested, I will post a couple close up pics of the broken lug later today.

I will also check on the type silver solder I have on hand. It's been some time since I used it, to repair a broken ejector guide pin, but I'm pretty sure it is Brownell's Silvalloy Force 44. I will confirm that this morning.

SRH

[Stan Hillis]

Here's a photo of the screwed-up forend lug, with the broken piece lying on top in position. You can clearly see where it broke off. It broke because someone in the past filed away the top of the lug, weakening it drastically.



Here are the two types of silver solder I have on hand. The wire in the bag is Force 44 and the stick kind is Harris 15. I don't know which would be the strongest to use but, in "a recent development in the case" , I was contacted by someone well respected for his abilities refinishing and repairing vintage guns who lives about a hour and a half from me, and who offered to micro-weld the lug by building up the damaged area. He is away from home traveling for a couple weeks but I'm supposed to ride over and meet with him when he returns home and we may end up going that route as opposed to brazing/soldering on a replacement piece.



I'll post further developments as they occur. Thanks again to all who are interested and have posted. Maybe we can all learn a little from this.

[Foxnut]

Thanks to both Stan and Frank for the thoroughness and explanation of the issue with pics and of course the suggested remedy by Frank on the repair. As I’ve said before I’m not skilled at work/repairs such as this but I still learn from these types of postings. Very informative!