Disassembly Instructions
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Ruby's_Dad
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Disassembly Instructions
Does anyone know or have a link to where the stock removal instruction went? When I get to the "disassembly" link, it is far more in depth than just getting the stock off. I thought that they previously had instructions on there. I had followed them about 3-6 months ago...now they seem to be gone.
Thank you!
Thank you!
- fox-admin
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Re: Disassembly Instructions
They are no longer avaliable. Does anyone want to write new instructions??
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birdhunter
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- Foxnut
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Re: Disassembly Instructions
I have tried to reach out to Mike Campbell who originally posted the stock removal instructions but have not been able to reach him. I will continue to reach out to him. If someone printed/saved them please let us know. Thanks - Brett
Regards - Foxnut
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Stan Hillis
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Re: Disassembly Instructions
I'm pretty sure I printed out Mike's instructions many years ago, and if so they are in a file cabinet in my shop. I'll look at my earliest convenience.
- Foxnut
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Re: Disassembly Instructions
Stan, that would be great if you do. Appreciate you looking for it. BrettStan Hillis wrote: ↑Fri Oct 31, 2025 6:43 pm I'm pretty sure I printed out Mike's instructions many years ago, and if so they are in a file cabinet in my shop. I'll look at my earliest convenience.
Regards - Foxnut
- Silvers
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Re: Disassembly Instructions
Just some thoughts here. if Stan or another member doesn't have our site's previous instructions, possibly the AHFCA would commission one of our members to write them up in detail to include good pics?
That leads to a bit of a dilemma. Last I heard we have about 400 members but it seems most of them are readers, here to be entertained, and just offhand I can think of only 12 or so members who are regular posters. And of those few contributors I'm thinking maybe 3 or 4 might have enough experience with Fox gun disassembly to be technically capable of doing a tutorial to include Ejector Foxes. On that line maybe a stipend would help for the time and effort by one of them? I’m not interested in doing that myself but hopefully someone else will step up.
Again, this might be a contingency action if a copy of the instructions that used to be on our website can’t be located.
frank
That leads to a bit of a dilemma. Last I heard we have about 400 members but it seems most of them are readers, here to be entertained, and just offhand I can think of only 12 or so members who are regular posters. And of those few contributors I'm thinking maybe 3 or 4 might have enough experience with Fox gun disassembly to be technically capable of doing a tutorial to include Ejector Foxes. On that line maybe a stipend would help for the time and effort by one of them? I’m not interested in doing that myself but hopefully someone else will step up.
Again, this might be a contingency action if a copy of the instructions that used to be on our website can’t be located.
frank
Aan
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Stan Hillis
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Re: Disassembly Instructions
Following are the instructions to safely remove a buttstock from an AH Fox gun, and disassemble the action. These instructions originated with "rabbit", who posted them on the DGJ site forum some 22 years ago. I printed them at that time and have referred to them many times for a clean and strip, or a repair.
The original text is all in one paragraph, with some incorrect grammar and punctuation. I'm "cleaning it up" a bit and separating the procedure into steps so it can more easily be implemented by future users.
1. Remove screw from trigger guard and rotate tang CCW to unthread the stud in the triggerplate.
2. Spring the tang away from the inlet just sufficiently to allow the end to clear and not scrape the wood inlet edges, as it turns.
3. Remove trigger plate by first removing the "hand screw", at the after end, and the larger engraved bolt at center bottom. This larger one can be very tight and the application of some good penetrating oil for a few days beforehand, and the use of a screwdriver that properly fits the slot is
advised.
4. There's a small spring in a well above this bolt which pushes up against the detent for the toplever. Watch carefully as it may fall out unnoticed. If it doesn't, use a dental pick to carefully remove it.
5. Rock, lever, bump with an amber hammer, or otherwise loosen the trigger plate to where it can be removed.
6. Loosen the setscrew in the center "bearing", between the sears, of the sear axle and drift out sear axle with a pin punch or piece of drill rod far enough to allow removal of the sears, but leave it in the side of the action.
7. Remove the tang bolt under the top lever.
8. At this point, unless you have a stock that has "spread it's cheeks" due to a split in the wood at the tang and been repaired by cross-pinning, just slip the stock rearward to remove.
9. Find and remove the safety push rod in drilled hole in stock.
10. Pay attention to how that hand screw that taps through the top tang is dressed flush with the tang. If it is overtightened when re-assembling you may bind the safety.
For those of you who have memorized this procedure, as I have, feel free to offer suggestions as to how to better clarify or improve the instructions. After corrections or improvements are completed maybe Craig could repost this as a "Sticky" somewhere appropriate.
The original text is all in one paragraph, with some incorrect grammar and punctuation. I'm "cleaning it up" a bit and separating the procedure into steps so it can more easily be implemented by future users.
1. Remove screw from trigger guard and rotate tang CCW to unthread the stud in the triggerplate.
2. Spring the tang away from the inlet just sufficiently to allow the end to clear and not scrape the wood inlet edges, as it turns.
3. Remove trigger plate by first removing the "hand screw", at the after end, and the larger engraved bolt at center bottom. This larger one can be very tight and the application of some good penetrating oil for a few days beforehand, and the use of a screwdriver that properly fits the slot is
advised.
4. There's a small spring in a well above this bolt which pushes up against the detent for the toplever. Watch carefully as it may fall out unnoticed. If it doesn't, use a dental pick to carefully remove it.
5. Rock, lever, bump with an amber hammer, or otherwise loosen the trigger plate to where it can be removed.
6. Loosen the setscrew in the center "bearing", between the sears, of the sear axle and drift out sear axle with a pin punch or piece of drill rod far enough to allow removal of the sears, but leave it in the side of the action.
7. Remove the tang bolt under the top lever.
8. At this point, unless you have a stock that has "spread it's cheeks" due to a split in the wood at the tang and been repaired by cross-pinning, just slip the stock rearward to remove.
9. Find and remove the safety push rod in drilled hole in stock.
10. Pay attention to how that hand screw that taps through the top tang is dressed flush with the tang. If it is overtightened when re-assembling you may bind the safety.
For those of you who have memorized this procedure, as I have, feel free to offer suggestions as to how to better clarify or improve the instructions. After corrections or improvements are completed maybe Craig could repost this as a "Sticky" somewhere appropriate.
- Jeff S
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vaturkey
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Re: Disassembly Instructions
See below
Last edited by vaturkey on Fri Nov 07, 2025 7:09 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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vaturkey
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Re: Disassembly Instructions
I seem to recall there was a specific Brownnell screw driver bit that was recommended to remove the bottom floorplate screw. I know I bought one at the time. If I can find it I'll post it.
Pretty sure it is a 340-3.
Pretty sure it is a 340-3.
- Silvers
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Re: Disassembly Instructions
Just a quick note here before someone orders the bit cited by Tom. That Brownells Mag Tip bit will be too thick for pristine/unmolested Fox trigger plate screw slots. I'd suggest ordering a 340-1 or a 340-2 for screws that (respectively) are totally unmolested, or show some signs of having been removed/replaced but the slot is still pretty good. Actually they're cheap enough and I suggest amateur Foxsmiths to order both.
THANK YOU friend Stan for your search and efforts for the good of the Association. There are a few steps by "Rabbit" that could be reworded or changed and I'll be happy to do that over the next few days once I get time, and will post a proposed edit here for review. frank
frank
Aan
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vaturkey
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Re: Disassembly Instructions
Thanks Frank. I went back and looked and I have both the 340-3 and the 340-2. Just confirmed the 340-2 is the way to go on my 20 gauge Sterly.Silvers wrote: ↑Sat Nov 08, 2025 7:45 amJust a quick note here before someone orders the bit cited by Tom. That Brownells Mag Tip bit will be too thick for pristine/unmolested Fox trigger plate screw slots. I'd suggest ordering a 340-1 or a 340-2 for screws that (respectively) are totally unmolested, or show some signs of having been removed/replaced but the slot is still pretty good. Actually they're cheap enough and I suggest amateur Foxsmiths to order both.
THANK YOU friend Stan for your search and efforts for the good of the Association. There are a few steps by "Rabbit" that could be reworded or changed and I'll be happy to do that over the next few days once I get time, and will post a proposed edit here for review. frank
frank
- Foxnut
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Re: Disassembly Instructions
Stan,
A huge thank you for posting the directions. Much appreciated!! Thanks to all for other pearls and tidbits! Brett
A huge thank you for posting the directions. Much appreciated!! Thanks to all for other pearls and tidbits! Brett
Regards - Foxnut