Tool needed to install hammers on SW-16

[SXS ohio]

I have a project to reweld both the sear notch on my sterlingworth 16 gauge. I will need to have the hammers in and out of the gun several times to set sears, trigger pulls and so on. I need a tool to compress the hammer spring and cup, this will allow the hammer to slide into its place and pin it. This is a heavy short spring and this cannot be done by hand. I am studying a way to make my own tool for the job. Any help would be greatly appreciated. After the hammers are welded (mild steel filler rod), recut sear notches, set trigger pulls to 3 and 4lbs. I will remove them again and have them heat treated at a local shop. I paid one of the big name Fox guys to fix the heavy trigger pulls, after shooting the gun some the left barrel does not fire. (light hits) Also the barrels spring back after you open the gun and the shells are blocked by the breach balls from being removed. This is caused by the cocking levers not being at full cock. The sear notches have been over cut! The big name Fox guy wants paid again to fix his own do do. He charged me 450.00 to screw up my gun, Send it back!...No thanks. I bought a micro tig welder from Lincoln and will be set up soon for the welding work. Just need that hammer removal/install tool. SXS Ohio

[Mike of the Mountain]

Did you look at the disassembly/assembly guide on the home page of this site? That may help you.

[Silvers]

Mild steel filler as you plan to use isn't going to heat treat/harden to any extent, and relatively thin case hardening will quickly wear off under compression of the mainsprings. If I wanted to restore the hammer notches I'd have the welding tech use air hardening steel filler and then grind the notches to shape and angle using a thin grinding disc on a milling machine. Actually a better plan if the hammer notches weren't grossly goofed up by the previous man is to extend the tips of the hammer sears. Again using air hardening steel filler that's too hard to file and must be ground to shape and angle. All this work is probably too complex for most all first time gents and certainly has personal safety implications now or in the future. JME. Net, I understand wanting to do the work yourself for expediency and because you already got ripped but I think you're way better off by replacing with NOS or good used factory hammers and hammer sears, and having an experienced and proven gunsmith do it.

frank

[SXS ohio]

Good info Frank, So you do not think that hardening the parts after weld up is good idea? The hardening would be done at commercial shop. I have not researched this process or outcomes. So we will rethink our options. I am looking at air hardening rod material there are a several hardness options. I need help with this, I may choose a tool steel hardness...crown steel 220M? Do you have any input about the rod spec. Also the hammer notch is a real small weld 1/4" wide and maybe two passes at about 1/8" It should not overheat during the welding. I do not plan to weld sear levers, they will most likely be O.K. with stone dress at most. I worked on the table and jigs for install and removal of hammers from the receiver. I am close to easy in out set up that will compress the parts into place so the pins can be installed with hands free. Soon it will be time to do the welding. I want this to be done right the first time and exploring the options is good. I do not have a mill but could fab a steel grinding table and secure a dremel with proper grind wheel. thanks all, SXS Ohio

[Silvers]

Mild steel cannot be heat treated/hardened appreciably except with a thin surface "case" which as I've written will wear off under compression of the mainsprings when your 16 is in use. When lengthening hammer sears I have the welding done by a tech who works for my longtime friend in the aerospace industry just as a favor. He will not accept work from anyone. Then I finish grind to shape and angle myself at a machine shop where I can use the equipment. I worked at my cousin's shop weekends while in school. The welding tech told him he uses A2 air hardening tool steel filler (as I recall) and the work must be preheated in a temp controlled oven and he does it under a magnifier. He also told me if not done correctly the weld will be too hard and crack. If you're dead set at doing this work on your hammers I strongly suggest discussing the air hardening filler, preheat and shield gas with a dedicated welding supplies supplier, not the gent at the hardware store, etc. Just from your description I really doubt a Dremel tool setup will get you a hammer notch re-cut dead nuts parallel to the hammer pin hole and at the correct angle but could be wrong on that.

Your "tool" setup sounds interesting and I'd like to see a pic. Actually I've long used a hand tool for replacing the hammers; it's a blasting cap/dynamite punch from my youth. Just a 5/16" diameter brass rod with a push handle and the tip has a somewhat blunt point. I am attaching a pic. A similar one could be easily made with a piece of brass rod and a file handle. In use the frame is clamped upside down in a padded vice and the brass tip presses against the notch area of the hammer, pushed in and a slave pin is used to secure the hammer, later replaced with the regular hammer pin. Easy as pie once you've done a few.

[SXS ohio]

Frank...When I get the final jig finished I can get pics for you, will need your e-mail and send from my phone. The rabbit hole keeps getting deeper! A friend has a small milling machine for sale.

[Silvers]

Ken, I'd prefer that you post a pic or two of your hammer tool here so others can benefit. Instructions in the first sticky in this forum.

[SXS ohio]

never could get pics on this blog....welding is easy than that! Kenny

[SXS ohio]

The table top tool set up for removing/install hammers is underway and will soon be finished. Welding research has yielded the best approach is to use Tig air cooled hard steel. After welding the sear notch/sear levers as needed, parts will need to be pre-fit on a surface grinder or mill. That equipment I will need to buy, I do not own one. I have located a table top mill that may work? I am not wanting to break the bank with this project so it may take some looking. I bought a Lincoln square wave 200 Tig welder, gas bottle fill...I had a extra bottle to trade from mig welding days. One lb of that special welding rod was $48.00. A new automatic welding helmet and some misl. stuff. All this has cost me about 2200.00 thus far. This rabbit hole is a deep one!!! The good news is I have other uses for the new welder..(-: I own 2 Fox guns that need this repair work...they both do not fire one barrel and trigger pulls are heavy. I have a third gun that works fine but the barrels do not stay open to get shells in and out....the cocking levers are springy from not getting the hammers to full cock. I am enjoying learning and fixing my own Fox guns. Several pro's have helped with this collected info and there will be more help needed...I thank you all. SXS Ohio

[Jim Cloninger]

Good luck, Kenny! Jim

[Silvers]

Letsee, it's been two months since the last post here and maybe Ken will tell us how his setup worked out along with results?

frank

[SXS ohio]

Winters cold temps have me delayed.....I do not have heat in the workshop/weldshop but that's in the works too. I need to fab up some more parts for the jig, cut steel and so on. Just too dang cold and that's not fun! Anyway I did get the 220 wired up for the new Tig welder so its ready to go. We are close just need some 60 degree days so we can get back at it....(-: I hope to have all the work done, tools made, sears welded up and my gun back shooting again in time to take with me to Hausemann,s in June for show and tell.