The Blingin'est XE 30429

[oganza]

Sometimes when they say Chrome receiver, they really mean it.

This XE has been messed with quite a bit. Frame and fore end metal has been Chrome or nickel plated, with a copper layer underneath. Barrels have been cut down to 25 3/8 inches from 28. Comb was cut off and some wood spliced in between to make a monte carlo butt.

The good news is that it looks like the engraving have survived in good shape. There is about 1 1/2" of choke left with .004 and .005 on the #4 weight barrels. The triggers and ejectors work with snap caps.

I think it will make a good quail and early season dove gun, as it is. I have some extra barrels that are the proper width across the breach (Chromox 30" 2 wt.), but they need a rib relay and conversion to ejectors from extractor. Probably only a first week dove gun this year.

I was trying to decide if I should leave the chrome on it and do a full restore later. It sounds like it will be $200-300 to strip the chrome and then probably a re-case. Eventually, I would probably restock with a straight comb.

What says the crowd? Is it possible that the thickness of the chrome would create any wear / fit issues? If the pins have been chromed and I try to refit them after the chrome is remove, do you think they would have a fit issue?

I paid about what a decent AE would go for, how do you think I did?

What would you do to restore this XE?

[fox-admin]

It might be worth restoring IF it only had one issue---but your gun has three major issues--- a cut barrel, plated metal and cut up wood. It could become a major money pit very quickly.
My call would be shoot it as is--forget about restoring it unless you are fully capable if doing all the work yourself.

[Silvers]

The barrels also look like they were reblued. If owned this XE and was looking for a project I'd try de-plating the frame and other parts, and if the engraving was OK would then chemically color them. You probably know this but recasing will often warp the frame despite it being fixtured, and then major refitting is required afterwards. If the sear and hammer pins or their holes are oversize it's no big deal to make up new oversize pins. The barrel keels can be redone. I wouldn't try fitting that replacement barrel on this gun. The rib relay and barrel wedge engraving will be expensive and conversion from extractors to ejectors is often more easily said than done. Now, if the breech faces were plated and that plating is .003/4" thick to include the copper underlay, you'll have barrels that are off the face by at least that amount and then you're into rejointing. All told, it would be very difficult to restore this gun to make it look even close to an original XE. But with all that said it could look better IMO.

HOWEVER the key here is that I can do most all that work myself at nil cost except for my time. Maybe you can do likewise? But if not, I'm thinking that getting someone to do it will be way cost prohibitive. Not to mention the additional major cost of restocking to grade. In net, I agree with Craig to shoot the gun as is. The one thing I would get done in that case is to get the barrel ends fixed with plain solder, no need to fit steel filler pieces.

I DO NOT do gunsmithing for others and did not post this to solicit work. Just thinking out loud. I hate to say it but often it's best to walk away from a project like this one. Silvers

[Fin2Feather]

Is it just me, or do those barrels look reeaally thin?

[oganza]

Silvers, I agree with what you are saying. Definitely wouldn't be worth it to have others restore it for me. I am curious about the chemical coloring you mention. What does it look like compared to case-coloring?

Fortunately, I can do almost everything that this gun needs, myself. Re-casing and removing the chrome are probably the only parts that I won't be doing. I may do the chrome removal, if I can work out chemical disposal.

Fitting the barrels (even if they need re-jointing) and making the ejectors, if I need to, is relatively easy. You make a good point that the thickness of the chrome on the breach face will make the barrels off face. No point in fitting the new set until the chrome is removed.

I will make replacement keels and solder them in on the original barrels.

I don't know if I will have the A-grade barrels engraved to match. If I did, I would have the engraving chassed and lettering cleaned up on the original set.

I knew it was a shooter when I got it. I'm just trying to get it to a useful shooting level, with a comb that fits properly and the extra barrel set for some versatility. I am considering going the butt-transplant route on the stock. I could do that myself as well and save the cost of a restock.

How much time and $$$ I am willing to invest will definitely be determined by how good the engraving looks after chrome removal.

For now, I need to start looking for a 30" rib and ejectors for the A barrels.

[Silvers]

It sounds like you're aware of the issue with hexavalent chromium. That's definitely a consideration when de-plating.

I've come up with two chem solutions applied in series that will closely simulate muted case colors through chemical reactions, not stain or paint. A company has some interest in marketing and I'm bound by a confidential disclosure agreement. Meanwhile, you might try searching for "frame coloring" or similar on the S x S web sites where you'll find various ideas ranging from using cold blue solution, to more exotic and even wacky ideas. I am not endorsing any of them .... try on some scrap carbon and alloy steel before doing your frame and judge for yourself. Silvers

[oganza]

Barrels have definitely been reblued. There is a small amount of wear on the barrel stamps from an overly aggressive polishing.
There is one tiny area at the muzzle where the wall thickness is .024 (it goes to .029 about 1/32 into the barrel), the rest of the muzzle is .029+.

I will check the barrel wall thickness before I shoot the original barrels.
Anyone in Austin, TX with a wall thickness gauge and some spare time?

[bbman3]

Call Bruce in Tx. 830 540 3307