Floorplate not flush on receiver bottom

[dennis2146]

Good morning,
I am a new member though I have not received any documentation so far. I am also waiting for factory letters on two 16 gauge Sterlingworths I recently purchased. I have a couple of questions on one of them, serial number 368277. The floorplate does not tighten down flush with the bottom of the receiver. It sticks up approximately 1/16th of an inch. There is no looseness of the floorplate and when I attempted to screw it down the screw would not turn at all. I am planning to send it to a gunsmith and will do no working on it myself but am curious as to why it will not screw down flush with the receiver. Also the gun seems to be a bit off face as when I hold the buttstock and shake from side to side there is a slight perceptible movement felt. The barrels, however, seem to be totally butting up against the breechface properly though. I can't see any space between them and the breechface. I have shot the gun a few times at clay targets using both low pressure 2 3/4 inch shells as well as RST 2 1/2 inch shells. Upon firing the longer shells are really hard to remove and almost have to be pried out. With the RST shells they are easier but still harder than they should be to remove. Upon looking at the shell cases there is observable swelling near the rim which prevents the shell from extracting easily. Any suggestions on why this is happening. I am an experienced shooter/collector and do know of the different lengths of shotshells for older guns. Using the proper RST shells should result in the shells simply extracting easily enough to be plucked from the chambers but they aren't. One other question I have is the gun is wearing a J. C. Higgins recoil pad which I know is not original to the gun. Can someone please tell me what pad would have come from the factory for this gun. Thanks for any information I can get. I am looking forward to membership and other Fox guns in my future.

Dennis V. Nix

[bbman3]

Dennis,welcome aboard.My guess is that the little set screw that holds the pin that goes through each sear,it is the rear pin that is on side of frame has backed out or someone failed to tighten screw down before installing trgger plate.Trigger plate need removing and take a look.Easy fix if that is problem. Bobby

[ROMAC]

Was it ever re-cased?

You receiver could be warped ever so slightly.

[dennis2146]

To my knowledge it has never been recased. Colors are bright and shiny inside the forearm but the action shows only small amounts of case coloring except for under the lever which has quite a bit but is of course fading.

I do not have a proper screwdriver for the screws and am still somewhat concerned about it being slightly off face so will send the gun to Keith Kearcher in OR to have him look at it and see what troubles it has. I love the gun and am wanting to shoot it but not before it is done up right. I am not doing any restorative work on it other than a proper recoil pad and fixing what is wrong. I have never had a 16 gauge and now have 3, the two Sterlingworths and a L. C. Smith. All are great guns and though I also have a new never fired (until a few days ago) Winchester 101 in 20 gauge I predict it will see far less use than the 3 16 gauge guns I have. What a great gauge. Plenty of power, no recoil to speak of. As they say, Who could ask for anything more. Any idea as to year of manufacture and the proper recoil pad to replace the J. C. Higgins? Any idea as to why the poor extraction even with the RST shells? Thanks to all for the information. I really appreciate it.

Dennis

[mc15426378]

Possibly the chamber reamer used at the factory was old and the chambers were cut slightly undersize, or maybe the chambers need a good cleaning/polishing. A good smith can easily handle this issue.

My guess on the correct pad would be a six slot Jostam Anti-Flinch or a NoShoc, but good luck finding a six slot Anti-Flinch pad....really hard to find in any shape let alone usable. The NoShocs do come up from time to time on Ebay. You could also use a Hawkins with either the heart shaped or straight slots. Any of these would be period correct for your gun.

Mike

[dennis2146]

Thanks Mike. I will see what I can come up with before sending the gun off. I will have the gunsmith look at the chambers as well.

[Silvers]

Welcome Dennis. Smallbore Foxes that get off face are particularly prone to extraction/ejection problems when used with modern plastic hulls that have thin walls and low base wads. For example, Cheddites and similar. These guns were made for paper shells. Check your gun with a .003" steel automotive type feeler gauge. Barrels should be locked down and forend on the gun. If you can get the gauge between the standing breech and the back end of either or both barrels, you'll have to get it rejointed. Silvers

[dennis2146]

Thanks for the information. I will find a .003 feeler gauge and try it.
Dennis

[dennis2146]

I was able to use a feeler gauge on my 16 gauge Sterlingworth. It closes on one marked .010. I am guessing it is DEFINITELY off face which is one cause of my extraction problems from the information I have received on this site. I am planning to call Keith Kearcher in OR as I understand he is one of the best gunsmiths with knowledge and experience on fine double shotguns as well as other guns. I will also look into having the J. C. Higgins pad replaced with one appropriate to the era of the Sterlingworth. Thanks everyone for your information. Dennis