An ejector issue

[Laxcoach]

A little advice, please---
I recently bought a nice 16 S/W ejector, and just yesterday had a chance to try it on the skeet field. it's a 1920 gun and most likely has 2-9/16" chambers and I was shooting RGL's in it. The gun supposedly has not been shot in "over 30 years" but was clean and free of obvious dried oil, but failed to eject from the right barrel except two or three times in two rounds of skeet, and when it did was weaker than the left barrel.
After I got home I thoroughly flushed the forend and ejectors with brake parts cleaner and re-lubed both, but it continues to fail to eject snap caps from the right barrel. FWIW, it has been restocked before I bought it.
I have a buy back agreement with the seller but I really like the feel of the gun---- any suggestions as to an inexpensive fix? It was purchased to be my "go-to" grouse gun.

[Silvers]

Typically the right barrel ejector is the first to have a problem because it's fired more often. I doubt the problem you described has anything to do with the restocking. And the solvent and lube probably won't help because the parts are made to work dry; I never found any trace of old lube on original ejector forend parts I've had apart.

There are several probable causes for the problem you related and it will take someone who understands the design to check it out and fix it. One caution if you try something yourself and goof it up - new ejector parts are very hard to find. To compound things, some of the ejector parts advertised on the internet must have been rejects from Savage-Fox and/or incompletely machined when the factory shut down. I once sent back a series of supposedly NOS ejector sears (5 X) because each and every one had dimensions that were wrong. Finally the gent told me that was the last one he had and refunded my money. Interesting, he's still advertising ejector sears on the internet. I finally had to make one which took a lot of time because of the complex milling cuts.

There's no reason to think the problem can't be corrected by someone familiar with the design and with machine tools available to make parts if they can't be found. If you decide to keep the gun I'd recommend you send it to a professional.

Info to all: I will be happy to further discuss this topic on the Members Forum. Thanks. Silvers

[Laxcoach]

Silvers,
You have confirmed what I suspected---that this gun may be a money pit before I get the problem corrected. I'm a Smith guy, but Foxes as field guns hold an appeal for me. Consequently, I have contacted the seller and he has agreed to swap out this gun for a 20 S/W that I had originally purchased from him and traded for the 16---the 20 has been restocked with graded wood also. It's really too nice to take to the mountains and needs to have the chokes opened (#2 weight barrels as opposed to #3 barrels on the 16), but I can live with that. Thanks for your expertise !
PS--- This is the gun I asked you about the stock configuration at the Vintagers when you visited the Smith display.

[eightbore]

Do the ejectors move freely when the barrels are removed from the gun? If not, I would suspect a bent ejector shaft, or, even more likely, a slightly bent locating pin. Don't give up so easily.

[Laxcoach]

Bill,
Unfortunately, everything is smooth as silk. I believe that Silvers' diagnosis is correct, and I've made arrangements with the seller to trade back for the 20 I originally purchased from him. If you're interested and can make a trip down I-66 tomorrow, it will be at the Harrisonburg show.