Broken Ejector Guide Pin Removal
Posted: Wed May 16, 2018 12:00 pm
A while back Frank Srebro, Stan Hillis and others posted some threads on how to remove and replace a broken ejector guide pin from the breech. I recently encountered this on one of my high grade guns and thought I would pass on a neat trick that helped me remove the pin with minimal difficulty and "invasive procedure(s"). After a brief discussion with Dan Rossiter about the prats & pitfalls of "trying this at home', one of the things he suggested was the use of a 'rare earth' magnet (in this case Neodymium), which are very powerful and exert a magnetic force many times that of a conventional (e.g., ALNICO) magnet.
First I removed the ejectors and set them aside to allow for complete space access to the breech face. Since the broken guide pin was still embedded in the race (channel) that it moves back and forth in, I first needle-dropped a VERY small amount of Break-Free CLP into the race and let the barrels sit vertically overnight. Next day I blew the race out with compressed air (low power computer cleaning aerosol can), and gently tapped on the underside and barrel breech side of the race with a plastic mallet. I then put another micro-drop of CLP into the race and applied the magnet(s) while holding the barrels in a padded vise horizontally. After a couple of gentle taps and another short burst of air, the magnets pulled the pin right out.
Since that's about all of the type of amateur gunsmithing I'm willing to risk (and have the proper tools for), I stopped there. In the cleanup, I flushed both ejector pin races out with CLP and ran a Q-Tip with the fuzzy end cut off (resulting diameter is about perfect fit) in and out of each race to loosen debris and then blew them out once again with the air. I carefully set the broken pin aside and will deliver it to Dan for final repair/replacement.
You can use any number of cleaning/loosening penetrants for this and other stuck-stuff jobs; I like Break-Free CLP and have used it for years with very good results. Other good products are PB Blaster Penetrant & Loosener, Kroil, and any good gun oil cut with a little C9 solvent. Whatever, don't use too much - slathering the breech area makes a mess and deprives you of a clean and dry work area.
Check out the prior threads mentioned, especially Frank's very detailed explanation of the stress factors encountered along the ejector train during and after firing and ejection and you will see how important proper maintenance and repair of the guide pins demands attention. (Just enter 'ejector guide pin repair/replacement' in the search box and they will come up).
Lastly, the 'rare earth' series magnets are readily available (I got mine at Home Depot!) and they are CHEAP! - I think I paid just under $4 for a pack of 10 magnets (you want the small ones; .315 in. diameter here) so you can stack them in a column, which exerts tremendous pull on metal. I have enclosed a picture below showing the product. Thanks, Kevin
First I removed the ejectors and set them aside to allow for complete space access to the breech face. Since the broken guide pin was still embedded in the race (channel) that it moves back and forth in, I first needle-dropped a VERY small amount of Break-Free CLP into the race and let the barrels sit vertically overnight. Next day I blew the race out with compressed air (low power computer cleaning aerosol can), and gently tapped on the underside and barrel breech side of the race with a plastic mallet. I then put another micro-drop of CLP into the race and applied the magnet(s) while holding the barrels in a padded vise horizontally. After a couple of gentle taps and another short burst of air, the magnets pulled the pin right out.
Since that's about all of the type of amateur gunsmithing I'm willing to risk (and have the proper tools for), I stopped there. In the cleanup, I flushed both ejector pin races out with CLP and ran a Q-Tip with the fuzzy end cut off (resulting diameter is about perfect fit) in and out of each race to loosen debris and then blew them out once again with the air. I carefully set the broken pin aside and will deliver it to Dan for final repair/replacement.
You can use any number of cleaning/loosening penetrants for this and other stuck-stuff jobs; I like Break-Free CLP and have used it for years with very good results. Other good products are PB Blaster Penetrant & Loosener, Kroil, and any good gun oil cut with a little C9 solvent. Whatever, don't use too much - slathering the breech area makes a mess and deprives you of a clean and dry work area.
Check out the prior threads mentioned, especially Frank's very detailed explanation of the stress factors encountered along the ejector train during and after firing and ejection and you will see how important proper maintenance and repair of the guide pins demands attention. (Just enter 'ejector guide pin repair/replacement' in the search box and they will come up).
Lastly, the 'rare earth' series magnets are readily available (I got mine at Home Depot!) and they are CHEAP! - I think I paid just under $4 for a pack of 10 magnets (you want the small ones; .315 in. diameter here) so you can stack them in a column, which exerts tremendous pull on metal. I have enclosed a picture below showing the product. Thanks, Kevin