Fox Collectors

Now that the Fox bug has bitten me I am trying to figure out where to start with my first purchase.
A little history might help - I was given a year off from the university I attended. Seems showing up for my 10AM class wearing chest waders was not a good idea 45 days in a row. Love waterfowl hunting! My brother has introduced me to Sporting Clays which is fun but you don't get to wake up in the middle of the night, put on rubber pants and go stand in freezing water. Yet I am becoming addicted. Finally my son is training his one year old German Shorthair Pointer and I have been designated the "shooter" while he trains her. Really enjoy spending time with the two of them.

I currently have O/U in 12, 20, 28 gauge and use them in that order for the above sports. Can you begin to see my dilemma? What would your recommendation be if it was limited to a single purchase and limited budget. (If I wanted follow my first love it would be SuperFox but that won't work on a limited budget)

The only remaining "limited budget" options are a 12-gauge 30-inch Sterlingworth, or maybe an early A-Grade 12-gauge.

Cannot agree more! They are (relatively speaking) today what they were when they sold "back in the day" - a LOT of gun for the money. And don't bother with ejectors; they are a PITA in a blind or camoed boat and add considerably to the price of either a good Sterly or A-Grade. A 32" would be even better! JMHO.

30" sterly 12 with extractors is the most common out there and you can do just about anything with it. Certainly won't be the best carrying up the mountain for grouse, but with Niceshot or RST ammo you can shoot anything else with it for sure. IMO you can find a very nice gun as I describe above for about $800. Just make sure someone checks it out for you who knows doubles so you can make sure it hasn't been fiddled with and also that the gun is tight on face.

As other very knowledgeable Fox guys have recommended go for a original condition Sterlingworth 12/30 for under 1K. But if u r a waterfowler set your sites long term on a Super Fox. They are amazing guns especially with Kent TM 1 3/8oz #5's just absolute murder on big late season mallards.I have shot 100's of ducks with this combination and it is the most effective combination I have discovered in 50 years of waterfowl hunting. Now if u want to talk about the ultimate vintage sxs waterfowl gun think 2 7/8" 10ga.!!

If I had about $800-1000.00 to spend and had a long term plan for a Super-Fox somewhere in the future I wouldn't count out considering a 16 ga. Sterlingworth either.I bet you can get get shells to kill ducks with and when you do get the Super it will be a lot nicer to carry that 16 ga.with you in the woods and fields.I bet with a little luck you would be able to find a decent shooter one in that price range.

A 32" would be even better! JMHO.

The premium those extra 2-inches of barrel command in the present market is murderous to "limited budget."

There is a Sterlingworth 12/32 at Simpson Ltd for $1500.

Search "C22236" without the quotation marks.

I have no connection to Simpson or the gun.

Best,

Mike

Thank you for all the responses! It looks like waterfowling/sporting clays is winning out over upland hunting.

So a 12ga Sterly w/ 30 or 32 in barrels. Two questions what chokes should I look for and what premium/value are the extra 2 inches worth?

Thanks again
Bruce

Seawolf,

As Researcher has suggested, a 12 gauge Sterlingworth 30" or an early A 12.

Those early A 12's are real classics. I have one, early A 12 SN 7983 that I have had for more than 48 years. I shot sporting clays this morning with Fox-Admin (Craig) and O.H. Osthaus (Rick) using it. Have shot 1000's of rounds thru it. Back when lead was OK for waterfowl I used to shoot 2 3/4" magnums out of it. Did quite well with ducks and geese. Still closes like a bank vault. The gun has 28 inch barrels and is choked IC in the right barrel and Full in the left barrel. Two triggers and extractors. I think a great combination for a field gun or sporting clays.

Way back when, 30 - 40 years ago, long barreled shotguns were much less preferred and would be priced lower than an equivalent 28 or 30 inch gun. And original 26 inch barreled guns cost just a little more. Not these days however.

I cannot understand what those extra 2 inches get for you besides an emptier wallet. But that's just me.

Those early A's usually have nice wood and the fit and finish is the best. Actually I have two early A's. The second one, SN 19823, is a minty gun with the hang tags. I've never shot it.

If you have a choice, find one all original, used but not abused, and the more finish, the better. It will last a lifetime.

Good luck.

Jolly

I think everything being equal, that extra 2" of barrel between 30 and 32" will cost you about $500 in a 12 gauge Sterly or A grade.

Thanks again for educating a novice.
I have found a 2nd generation A grade that has caught my fancy. It meets many of the recommendations everyone has made. My concerns are 1. The stock has what appears to be a pin thru the wrist although tastefully done. Will this affect the shooting durability 2. The description states "brown gun". What does this mean and should it effect the price. 3. Anyone have experience buying from Steve Barnett Fine Guns

If you are looking for a shooter grade gun it might be a good gun. Might not. Depends on how stable the repair is. A brown gun I guess is similar to a silver gun. Silver gun means a gun that has virtually zero case coloring left. I assume brown gun means the same except the barrels might not have much blueing. I believe there are other guns out there that might serve you better. Steve Barnett is one of the better dealers out there (accordingly to what I've heard). I personally have no experience with him.

I have done some business with Steve and have nothing but good things to say about him. I saw his listing for the "brown gun" and the way I took it was that the finish had turned brown from use or some neglect at some point, if cosmetic only and the barrels are sound it would probably not be a concern as far as shooting. If done properly the wrist pin repair could be fine but I would have a competent stock expert check it out, I wouldn't feel qualified myself. These issues greatly affect the value of the gun but it still may be just fine for a shooter.

Also have dealt with Steve in the past. He is a southern gentleman and he likes to talk. Give him a call, I'm sure he will give you as much info as possible.