Fox Collectors

Hey all,
1920's era Sterlingworth side by side 12 gauge, double triggers:
Rear trigger has a lot of side to side play and sometimes the trigger return spring gets snagged up in the "V" slot in the trigger and doesn't reset properly. Possibly key-holed out some from use and years. Pin is fine and holes in base plate also fine. Just a sloppy hole in the trigger.
Already have it apart and wondering if anyone had any experience with this. I'm planning on reaming the holes to the next size on the triggers and bottom plate and fitting a larger dia pin. Done this several times on other firearms over the years with good results.
Not going to send it in to anyone, being a machinist by trade.
Anyone run into this, and what was done if my idea is different from yours.
Thanks!

Sounds like a good plan to me or find a new trigger and fit.Bobby

Some Fox triggers have a little more side to side play than others, especially the rear trigger because of its distance from the pivot, and that in itself isn't necessarily an issue. I really doubt that the hole in the trigger has worn oval. Sometimes the upright on one or the other trigger rubs against or just barely clears the safety slide when the trigger is pulled, and that in turn will cause it to hang up and the trigger spring will come out of the V notch. A larger pin will not correct that situation if that's what you have. It's impossible to give additional advice without a hands on inspection, and I'd suggest you assemble the hammer sears, sear spring and trigger plate to the frame (sans stock) and carefully inspect the function to decide on a repair plan. If you do that you'll have to put a temporary spacer between the back ends of the upper and lower tangs that corresponds to the linear dimension between the two when in the stock. frank

Check that sear spring real close for a fine crack. A loss of tension there can also cause function problems and not be easily seen. If nothing else shows up, there is probably nothing wrong with changing the pin OD and getting all the bores straight.

Thank you to all and the quick responses.
The sear spring is good with no cracks and both fingers are stiff and even with each other.
The hammer notches and sear noses are clean and sharp and index wonderfully.
Thank you for that fact that the rear trigger pin hole is farther away from the finger index increasing its wobble tendency. Simple geometry/physics (the end of a longer lever will seem like it moves farther than a shorter one, even if they both turn the same degrees).
Before I go through the reaming and new pin job, I will start with adding very thin shim washers (in .001" increments) and see if that reduces the wobble. Almost like side-play washers that are sold for Smith & Wesson revolvers that reduce the play on hammers and triggers.

Hey all,
Looks like the triggers pin hole is true and not key holed at all (thanks for pointing that out before I drilled and reamed). Installed a .009" shim on one side but there was still some wiggle. There wasn't enough clearance to add another .009, but a .005 fit and left the correct amount of play. The forward top part of the trigger that sits in the base slot that accepts the pin was originally machined thin (compared to the front trigger), so that's where I got the lateral wiggle.
I'll post some pics once I'm done. A buddy in Michigan makes all kinds of firearm shims and these were the ticket. I didn't have time to make them myself and for $4 each I couldn't go wrong and shipping was free in a regular .47 cent mailing envelope. Hardened stainless and I.D. matched the pin dia perfectly. O.D. of the shims are .250" which gives them enough surface area to cover the rounded area and not interfere with the base slot. I.D. is 3/32" which the pin is. No metric back in the 1920's LOL.

http://s246.photobucket.com/user/corona ... sort=3&o=0

The red arrow is pointing to the .009" shim and the green points to the .005". Just a slight amount of wiggle equal to the other trigger. No more binding of the trigger return spring.