Fox Collectors

Is there any way to determine the Fox barrel weight number, #0,2,3,4, if it was struck off in final production? I have a 30" 20 gauge with #3 weight barrels that weigh 3 lb 2 oz and a set of 28" 20 gauge barrels that weigh 3 lb 3oz, but have no weight markings.

FoxintheHenHouse

If you have access to a copy of the Macintosh book I believe there is a section that tells about the barrel weights and lengths per the gauges.

I do, thank you SPE33

I believe the weights in Macintosh's book are for unfinished barrels so your milage my vary.

I believe they are finished barrel weights, as they are very close to the weight of my barrel sets. I will use the chart below for future barrels that I find with no weight markings. With this chart I determined that my 28" 20 gauge barrels are also #3 weight, like my 30" set. There are charts for the 16 and 12 gauge also.



FoxintheHenHouse

IMO there is far too much anguish over these silly barrel weight numbers. The overall weight of the shotgun and its handling dynamics means more to me then some number that may or may not be on the bottom of the tubes.

No anguish at all for me, just research . I just want to know what I should limit my loads to with 2 3/4" shells. If it was a "0" barrel weight, I would probably not hesitate in shooting 1 1/8 oz 20 gauge shells through my late 30s Sterlingworth for turkey loads. But since I now believe it is a #3 weight, I will limit my shooting to 1 oz field loads, or maybe 7/8 oz, depending on how they pattern.

FoxintheHenHouse

Researcher wrote:IMO there is far too much anguish over these silly barrel weight numbers. The overall weight of the shotgun and its handling dynamics means more to me then some number that may or may not be on the bottom of the tubes.

Amen

birdawg wrote:

Researcher wrote:IMO there is far too much anguish over these silly barrel weight numbers. The overall weight of the shotgun and its handling dynamics means more to me then some number that may or may not be on the bottom of the tubes.

Amen

It's not anguish or religion, it's steel's integrity, that I'm interested in.

FoxintheHenHouse

With Fox barrels integrity is built in. Barrel weight, as Dave stated, is for the handling dynamics.

FoxintheHenHouse wrote:

birdawg wrote:

Researcher wrote:IMO there is far too much anguish over these silly barrel weight numbers. The overall weight of the shotgun and its handling dynamics means more to me then some number that may or may not be on the bottom of the tubes.

Amen

It's not anguish or religion, it's steel's integrity, that I'm interested in.

FoxintheHenHouse

Then it should be the chamber pressures that concern you, not the shot charge weight. The shot charge weight has more to do with protecting the integrity of the wood in the original stock head, i.e., recoil.

SRH

Then it should be the chamber pressures that concern you, not the shot charge weight. The shot charge weight has more to do with protecting the integrity of the wood in the original stock head, i.e., recoil.

SRH[/quote]

Increased shot charge is in direct connection to increased chamber & barrel pressure. That is why knowing the barrel weight, or overall construction, is crucial in preventing barrel bulge, split tubes or worse, which is my main concern foremost to any stock splitting or cracking. I have fed my 1938 New Ithaca Field NID 28 gauge on a steady diet of Winchester 1 oz loads, which has more recoil than standard 3/4oz loads, with no effect on the wood. With 1 oz, the increased pattern density at any range is easily achieved. But, if this same Ithaca would have been built with a Fox type #3 or 4 barrel, I would never do this.

FoxintheHenHouse

How do you come up with what loads are right for what # barrel ? All the discussion on the topic of what shells to shot seems like a never ending circle. Are their any records if the different barrel weights were proofed differently ?

FoxintheHenHouse wrote:Then it should be the chamber pressures that concern you, not the shot charge weight. The shot charge weight has more to do with protecting the integrity of the wood in the original stock head, i.e., recoil.

SRH

Increased shot charge is in direct connection to increased chamber & barrel pressure. That is why knowing the barrel weight, or overall construction, is crucial in preventing barrel bulge, split tubes or worse, which is my main concern foremost to any stock splitting or cracking. I have fed my 1938 New Ithaca Field NID 28 gauge on a steady diet of Winchester 1 oz loads, which has more recoil than standard 3/4oz loads, with no effect on the wood. With 1 oz, the increased pattern density at any range is easily achieved. But, if this same Ithaca would have been built with a Fox type #3 or 4 barrel, I would never do this.

FoxintheHenHouse

I once had a 12 gauge BE grade with 30" barrels that were clearly stamped with a 3The guy that sold it to me told me that it was a 3" twelve, based on that stamp. He had been shooting 1-1/2 Oz 3" magnum loads in it.

I killed a bunch of ducks with that gun - using 2-3/4", 1-1/8 oz. loads of 5s.