fitting keels and plugging holes between barrels

[Brian]

who has any photos , plans, instructions, tips, techniques, on how to fill the keel spaces at the muzzles. I have fit a few steel keel inserts but there are times when the space is too small ad all you ever see at the muzzles is lead. its always a bear to fill those little voids . there has got to be an easy fix that I just don't see.

[mike campbell]

Strikes me as purely a cosmetic issue. If JB Weld doesn't satisfy you, what about some cerrosafe?

[Brian]

Jeez Mike,
Its not a Parker.
I want it original. That sounds like a repair by a "Master New England Gunsmith!!!!
LOL

[mike campbell]

Oh yeah. Easy fix. Original.

[J. A. Early]

I use a very low temp solder from Brownells. One can place the solder right over the void, use an electric soldering iron. Then I use the nail files one buys at beauty supply shops to file the solder down. I usually use 600 grit nail files for polishing, after using a rougher file for smoothing out the solder. They come in 100/200, 400/600. 800/1000 or some different combinations with different grits on each side. I think about a $1 apiece.

A real gunsmith told me about these and I use then to polish the muzzle ends of all of my guns, as they were from the factory. Also use the finer grit ones to clean up the breech ends/extractors as well as the lugs when I rust blue.

This solder melts at 275 degrees: http://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-tools ... od108.aspx

[Gary R]

When replacing keels I leave the keel stand a bit proud of the barrels.
When the keel is fieled down even with the end of the barrels,
it leaves the keel metal exposed with a solder outline.
tinning the keel befor inserting it in barrel helps, and all surfaces must be cleen
for a good bond.
This might not be the right way to do it , but it works for me.