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Price Check- SW 20ga
Posted: Wed Oct 17, 2007 3:24 pm
by wscovell
First a thanks to those who helped answer my ?s about the 16ga SW I just bought. I'm not too sure how prevalent the smallbore SW are from region to region, but I stumbled across a possible project gun and would like a price check.
It's a Philly-era non-ejector SW in 20ga that would have to be restocked due to it's having been cut for a child or lady, but mechanically very good. Old gentleman selling wants $1400 and I doubt I can get him to budge as he has some sentimental feelings for this gun. I don't have the serial # handy, but it looks like it has uncut 26" #3 weight tubes, 95% original blue w/o dents, dings and mirror bores. Couldn't check choke constrictions. Action is tight on face and lever well right of center. CC is ~60-70%. Forearm wood is okay, but would prob get changed out in a restock. . .
The plan percolating in the back of my head would be to pick this up and have it restocked in a straight stock w/ relatively plain grade walnut that fits the SW and use as a fun, light-weight snap shooter. Who knows, maybe in another 5-10 years look into doing an upgrade on this one. For those more savvy than me and for those who've been down this path, what are your thoughts? TIA, Bill
Posted: Wed Oct 17, 2007 4:00 pm
by Ken Hurst
Bill, the major part of the restocking cost is the labor involved. Please give thought to buying a nice piece of wood instead of plain piece --- cost the same to restock pretty wood as plain. Also, down the road, you won't have to have it restocked again. FWIW & IMHO, Ken
Posted: Wed Oct 17, 2007 4:55 pm
by wscovell
Ken, thanks for the advice. From lurking around this and other sites, I know your opinion is always held in the highest regard along w/ your work. I was debating the issue of wood grade to use. I learned the hard way restoring an old MGA car a few years back. The cost of labor and my time was the same had I been working on a more expensive Healey, or Jag. The price point between parts wasn't that great for the different cars either. The biggest take-home lessons I took from that experience were to a) do it because the car (gun) really speaks to you b/c otherwise you'll never be able to justify the cost, and b) buy the best example you can afford as the basketcase you got a good deal on ends up costing much more in the long haul. While there are definite dissimilarities b/t the car resto and buying a gun, I figure some aspects are bound to hold true.
From what I gather after spending a few hundred $ for the blank and another 1000-1500 for the stocking (am I off much with these #s?) I could pay retail prices for an orig 20ga SW on the net or perhaps come w/i striking distance of one of the lower graded guns. Part of my interest however in this gun is that I want a project and the second is that I can parcel the costs out over time.
Re the SW, I haven't yet decided how I feel concerning having an "upgrade" performed. If the gun stays as a utilitarian SW, pretty in it's own right, I wonder if it would look out of place with really nice wood. . .
Posted: Wed Oct 17, 2007 5:42 pm
by Ken Hurst
Mr. Bill ---- I can give you some real money saving ideas if you give me a call. I'm always in the shop so am easy to contact. Call me at 910-221-5288 EST. Ken
Posted: Thu Oct 18, 2007 2:02 am
by mike campbell
"If the gun stays as a utilitarian SW, pretty in it's own right, I wonder if it would look out of place with really nice wood. . ."
Bill,
I've done a number of these and am of the same mind as Ken. Buy a blank that you admire and have at it. All of mine wear stocks more beautiful than any original ever made. When you're all done, you have a "utilitarian" SW that differs from an XE only in the "scratching" as Ken calls it....and that can be rectified later.
I used to call my guns "upgraded SW's", now I call them XE projects still in the works.
Here's a ccouple of my "XE projects". You'd have to get awful close to tell they haven't been engraved yet....

Posted: Thu Oct 18, 2007 6:26 pm
by wscovell
WOW! I see what you guys mean. . .
Out of curiosity, because of the "hidden" SW forearm fastener, there's no way to change this out for a higher grade type latch, or is there?
Also, as far as providing an engraver with very detailed pictures of a higher grade pattern to go by, where should I turn? The pictures I've seen of case colored actions are a bit hard to see the detail in. Any etchings, stencils or the like? Bill
Posted: Thu Oct 18, 2007 7:08 pm
by Fin2Feather
Hey Mike,
Who dusts all that stuff for you anyway

?
Posted: Fri Oct 19, 2007 12:37 am
by PeteM
Send Ceci Fredi an email. Tell him what you want and give him a price range. He will usually send you 4 or 5 pictures to look over. Not happy, ask for more. Need a close up, ask him. Great man to deal with.
http://www.gunstockblanks.com/
When you are ready. Send the blank with old stock to Ed Shulin. He will duplicate it and send it back for about $100.
SHULIN STOCK WORKS
Ed Shulin
16511 Co. Rd. 75.1
Trinidad, CO 81082
Phone: 719-846-2301
All that is left is the final fitting, shaping, sanding and checkering. If you can do any of those yourself, you can save a bit.
You may want to give Dan May a call about finishing the wood, etc.
http://www.classicgunstocks.com/homepage.html
If just need some one to checker it, call Tim Lyon-Smith
http://www.classiccheckering.com/index.html
Pete