Fox Collectors

OK, disassembled the forend completely. Took the hammers and ejector pins out of the frame. It became obvious that this works in reverse. The little pins that stick out of the frame have two functions. One, they keep the sears from engaging the hammers of the ejectors on the forend metal. Without the pins pushing the sears out of the way, the ejectors would kick everytime the gun is opened, which is what mine was doing. Once the barrel is fired, those little pins sticking out will retract, allowing the sear on the forend to be engaged. 2nd function, once the gun is being opened, the gun is cocked, those little pins will be sticking back out, ( keep in mind the sears are engaged and the forend is now ready to kick the shell) and they hit the top of the sear arm sticking out the front of the forend metal, and lift the sear, allowing the spring to activate and kick the shell. Very simple actually. I had to TIG a little metal to each of the rod tips ( they are part of the main spring assembly in the frame, the hammers must come out to get to them) in order to make them long enough to keep the sear from engaging full time. It was a simple fix that cost me nothing except a little bit or take down time. The gun works flawlessly. Jerry Andrews

Jerry sounds like you got the job done. Bobby

Yes, not sure if the 2nd style ejectors work the same way but thought I'd post this on here in case anyone else might fight the same problem. Jerry

Parts for the first style ejectors are extremely hard to find.Don Kass was looking for parts a couple years ago. Bobby

I was lucky the parts were all there, just needed a bit of welding, Jerry

The far more common 2nd style (Russell) ejector trip mechanism works totally different.

Jake, it seems like you have a fix and I'm happy for you, but I would question why the rods needed additional metal at their front ends? It seems that the front end of the rod isn't subjected to much friction type wear that would cause it to become short. Silvers

Just curious, is there a set of specifications for the metallurgy and hardness of those parts you TIG welded to increase OAL?
What filler rod and aprox. amperage settings and both cup size, and collet and tungsten dia. did you use? 2% thoria and DC SP are my guess, but when you weld to build up a tip, control of filler rod flow is sometimes "dicey"? If you don't mind sharing your techmnique with us here. Thanks!!

Well, that's a good question. Everytime the gun is opened, those little tips are grinding on the forend. I'm guessing that's what caused the excessive wear. The metal loss actually could have been the sears in the forend but they are fairly complicated so I didn't want to tie into those. I can make the ejector/push pins that come through the frame if I had to so that's why I chose to add metal. They are hard as can be, so the wear probably was in the sears. This gun has been worked on before also, so who knows what someone did. I fully understand the mechanism now though, and that was the other thing I was after was a full comprehension on how it worked. Jerry

The guy who runs the varnish department for me is also our welder, I'll check with him to see. I know it was a very thin amount he added, less than ten thousandths. Jerry