Stock refinished

[Asterix]

Hi, My clear coat has wore off of my stock and was wondering what anyone recomends me to do if anyone has done the same thing in the past. I want to bring back the shine it should have and am trying to do it myself. Any brand recomendations, oils clear coats, or stains?
Thanks

[abner]

Asterix:

I don't have the information you need, but as long as someone may provide the answer you need, I have a question about removing the old finish. What does anyone recommend to remove the old finish on a stock before doing the refinish? Thanks

[Twice Barrel]

Asterix:

I don't have the information you need, but as long as someone may provide the answer you need, I have a question about removing the old finish. What does anyone recommend to remove the old finish on a stock before doing the refinish? Thanks

Original stock finish on most Fox guns was varnish with at least some graded guns (SP/SPEs) being rubbed oil. In either case a brief soak ( 1 or two hours) in an acetone bath followed by a good wipe down with denatured alcohol should remove the finish. Some use oven cleaner or paint stripper but I find that is not necessary.

As far as a finish I like to use a good quality varnish or for a rubbed oil finish I use a mixture of rotten stone and Tung Oil wet sanded into the wood to fill the pores followed by multiple coats of Tung Oil cut 50/50 with mineral spirits also wet sanded into the stock to finish filling pores and deepening the finish. It usually takes 5 or 6 days to finish a stock but is well worth the effort when you a done.

[Silvers]

Abner, I remember seeing late 1920's Fox adverts stating that "Duco" was being used on some guns. Probably a cost cutting measure. I'm thinking that Duco was a Dupont nitrocellulose-based lacquer made for wood finishing. Lacquer thinner with appropriate safety precautions would probably do a good job removing that finish. Silvers

[Vol423]

Formbys Stock refinisher will remove most vintage stock varnish finishes practically instantly. I use a small stainless steel dog bowl and 0000 Steel wool. There is no thick "goo" and it dissolved the finish without affecting the wood. It has a high acetone content plus other solvents. Just use it outdoors. It is highly volatile. Formbys also makes a polyurethane remover but I've never tried it.

[CLAYBORN]

What are your thoughts on Danish oil and rubbed with 600 grit sand paper? Is True Oil a quality product for refinishing a Fox stock?? I like the oil but will only do it once on this gun. Any advice? I would appreciate it. Heh Steve where do you get rotten stone??
Later,
Clay

[spyder]

I'm not Steve, but I can buy rottenstone at my local Ace Hardware. It comes in wax carton like a pint of milk.

[Twice Barrel]

What are your thoughts on Danish oil and rubbed with 600 grit sand paper? Is True Oil a quality product for refinishing a Fox stock?? I like the oil but will only do it once on this gun. Any advice? I would appreciate it. Heh Steve where do you get rotten stone??
Later,
Clay

Clay if you want the pores filled you will need to do multiple coats. If you want a "British" finish with a less slick finish two or three coats will seal the wood from moisture and give you a not unattractive finish. Mask off your checering before you start applying finishing to the rest of the stock. When the rest of the stock is finised and dry remove the masking tape, dilute whatever finish you are using about 50/50 and rub it into the chechering until it starts to shine then wipe it off and your cherkering will be sealed but will not fill with finish.

[saddlesore]

I do not wet sand mud in to the wood. It leaves an undesireable finish. That is pretty much old technology.

I use a suitable water based paint remover,paper towels, and steel wool and the wash off liberally with water,then alcohol. I would avoid soaking in acteone,but would rather wash off to get old oils off followed by heat and washings.Soaking tends to get natural wood oils out more than you wish.Use a stiff toothbrush to clear the checkering. Although I find you can never get the checkering 100 % clean and I usually end up recutting it after I am done with the final finish.

Then I wet the stock and dry it immedaitely to get the whiskers raised followed by light sanding with 320-400 grit paper, using a block as much as possible. Any dents are raised prior to that by the steaming method.

When ready ,I start with a good spar varnish such as Minwax urethane Helmsman, uncut. Thinning does not help penetration and hinders pore filling. About 4 coats ,with light sanding in between usually fills all the pores, but keep at it until they are filled. It will impart a little darker finish withot any stains.Make sure the vanrish is completely dry before sanding or you will drag varnish out of the pores.Usually over night will do it,but if the sanding does not produces white dust,it is not cured enough.

I then cut the spar varnish about 25% with good tung oil and start applying coats, let set a few minutes and then wipe each dry. Keep at it until you get the desired finish and depth you want.Linseed oil may be used instead of the tung oil, but don't use the hardware variety. Get it at an art /paint store.
If you use steel wool, between the latter coats, get the unoiled 0000 type and use good strong air compressor to blow off the particles followed by atack cloth before the next coat. You can start straight off the 1st few coats or straight spar varnish and let it set a little to soak in and the wipe /rub dry ,but this will take a lot longer to fill the pores

Then I use either 100% tung oil or the cut spar varnish/tung oil to redo the checkering. Apply sparingly and brush out all excess with a tooth brush and soak up with paper towels.Two coats usually does it,but you want only enough to seal and not fill any checkering. You can wipe dry any over run to the stock finish along the checkering and you will never see it.

This is where the checkering can become unsightly. Any flats from wear will become very evident and this is why I recut it. Even after the two coats,at times I have to go back and recut a few places to get sharp diamonds and the finish that area again.

Refinishing a stock without addressing the checkering leaves an amaturish appearance.

Do not use steel wool between the initial pore fillling coats or you will end up with steel wool particles imbedded in the wood.

Let the stock set about 4 weeks to harden up and the rub out with rotten stone/mineral oil.

There many many methods of stock finishing and they all work to differnt degrees . This has worked for me.Patience and time are the secret.Do not hurry the process.

Another product that is a tung oil/ urethane varnish product,much like Tru oil is Arm-R- Seal by General.It is a wipe on finish, a little thinner than straight spare urethane varnish and takes more coats to seal the pores.It will not be as dark as finish as the above as it is clearer.

[CLAYBORN]

Want to thank all of you for your help. Hope to post some before and after before to long. Started by repairing the stock and ended up doing more than expected. Long winter project. I better hurry before I get to old and can't enjoy it. LOL
Hope you all have a good day!
Later,
Clay