What to do with this 20 gauge Fox Sterlingworth?

[DarylC]

Yes Stan, I agree with Tom. My favorite hunting gun is a Sterlingworth and when it gets wet the stock looks horrible. Please post pics and your method.

[Foxnut]

Orpington,
What is your concern about Savage/Utica vs. Philly gun? As Researcher said that gun is all Philly components. Possibly a gun that was all ready serial numbered and in the white when Savage purchased Fox. Hard to say for sure. I would not rely on the Lightner published serial number chronology that you may be referring to for a 1928 gun. It has been demonstrated that there is some incorrect information with that chronology.

Absolutely nothing wrong with a Savage/Utica gun!!! As for the stock the finish has flaked off so refinish it. Will not hurt value at all and will probably help. As for your your value estimation my opinion is that your on the high side for a Sterlingworth (Philly or Savage) for a gun in that condition. Fox small bores do command a higher price just like other SxS’s but condition and barrel length drives that value. As for the Bradley front bead I’d leave as is, won’t hurt or help value. Refinish the stock and enjoy the gun!!!

[Stan Hillis]

Here are a few pics I hastily snapped this afternoon. I failed to do it justice somehow, as the pics do not convey the depth of the finish. This is the thing that has so impressed me about this method ......... how it takes a plain piece of walnut, with little to no figure, and makes it look so pleasing. When done properly the wood takes on a holographic effect and when moved slowly, upon viewing, the appearance seems to change. It's like you are looking INTO the wood. Anyone can look up Pilkington's method of sanding in the finish, with 320, then 400, then lastly 600 grit wet/dry paper. The process completely fills in the pores and produces a finish as slick as glass, without the high gloss. More gloss can be added, but I prefer the low gloss sheen.

What I use for finish is a duplicate of what Pilkington used to sell as his Classic Stock Oil Finish. It consists of a 50/50 mixture of pure Tung Oil and Ace brand Marine Spar Varnish, with a tiny amount of Japan Drier added. Pilkington's finish, that he sold, had pure marine spar varnish in it, but the Ace brand has a little tung oil already in it, so the Japan Drier is needed to promote speedy drying of the finish. If anyone tries and cannot find the sanding in process, per Pilkington, let me now and I will copy it for you.

[DarylC]

Thanks Stan, that is a wonderful looking finish and should be easy to maintain. Is Japan drier easily obtainable? I've heard of it but have never seen it.

[vaturkey]

Love the leather faced pad. Guessing that was glued on.

[Stan Hillis]

Thanks Daryl. Yes, Japan Drier is sold in hardware and paint stores. A friend in MT taught me this finishing method and it was he that worked out the recipe with added Japan Drier. When in use we mix 1/4 tsp. of the two part finish with 1/2 tsp. mineral spirits. Then to that we add three-four drops of Japan Drier, according to the relative humidity.

Tom, that leather faced pad has special significance to me. The leather was cut from my grandad's old duck hunting coat. Brings back wonderful memories.

[orpington]

Orpington,
What is your concern about Savage/Utica vs. Philly gun? As Researcher said that gun is all Philly components. Possibly a gun that was all ready serial numbered and in the white when Savage purchased Fox. Hard to say for sure. I would not rely on the Lightner published serial number chronology that you may be referring to for a 1928 gun. It has been demonstrated that there is some incorrect information with that chronology.

Absolutely nothing wrong with a Savage/Utica gun!!! As for the stock the finish has flaked off so refinish it. Will not hurt value at all and will probably help. As for your your value estimation my opinion is that your on the high side for a Sterlingworth (Philly or Savage) for a gun in that condition. Fox small bores do command a higher price just like other SxS’s but condition and barrel length drives that value. As for the Bradley front bead I’d leave as is, won’t hurt or help value. Refinish the stock and enjoy the gun!!!

The quality did go down once Savage purchased Fox. What year did that occur?

Of course, if this shotgun is of parts manufactured in Philadelphia, then the only difference is the location on the barrel. But this was news to me and I learned this about my Fox Sterlingworth on this forum, and it caused me to pull my sake ad on it and I’ll keep it.

Also, I have since learned that shorter barrels are LESS desirable than longer ones. I suspect this is a shift from decades ago when it was such that shorter barrels were more popular. I think a compact gun for use in woods and brush was then desirable, but grouse are a rare bird these days and maybe this is what has led to the shift. A longer sighting plane would be more desirable, I suppose, when your game is now nothing more than a shattered clay pigeon.

I purchased this shotgun before, for me at least, the internet led to a smaller world and I was afraid another wouldn’t come along. I agreed to the deal before seeing this shotgun and was disappointed even at the time of purchase as to the condition of the wood finish. But I am true to my word and was afraid it might be awhile before I would see another one.

What would lead to wood finish deterioration such as this?

[Jeff S]

Stan, thanks for the tips. Your stock looks great and I love the sentimental touch to your pad.

[vaturkey]

Orpington,
What is your concern about Savage/Utica vs. Philly gun? As Researcher said that gun is all Philly components. Possibly a gun that was all ready serial numbered and in the white when Savage purchased Fox. Hard to say for sure. I would not rely on the Lightner published serial number chronology that you may be referring to for a 1928 gun. It has been demonstrated that there is some incorrect information with that chronology.

Absolutely nothing wrong with a Savage/Utica gun!!! As for the stock the finish has flaked off so refinish it. Will not hurt value at all and will probably help. As for your your value estimation my opinion is that your on the high side for a Sterlingworth (Philly or Savage) for a gun in that condition. Fox small bores do command a higher price just like other SxS’s but condition and barrel length drives that value. As for the Bradley front bead I’d leave as is, won’t hurt or help value. Refinish the stock and enjoy the gun!!!

The quality did go down once Savage purchased Fox. What year did that occur?

Of course, if this shotgun is of parts manufactured in Philadelphia, then the only difference is the location on the barrel. But this was news to me and I learned this about my Fox Sterlingworth on this forum, and it caused me to pull my sake ad on it and I’ll keep it.

Also, I have since learned that shorter barrels are LESS desirable than longer ones. I suspect this is a shift from decades ago when it was such that shorter barrels were more popular. I think a compact gun for use in woods and brush was then desirable, but grouse are a rare bird these days and maybe this is what has led to the shift. A longer sighting plane would be more desirable, I suppose, when your game is now nothing more than a shattered clay pigeon.

I purchased this shotgun before, for me at least, the internet led to a smaller world and I was afraid another wouldn’t come along. I agreed to the deal before seeing this shotgun and was disappointed even at the time of purchase as to the condition of the wood finish. But I am true to my word and was afraid it might be awhile before I would see another one.

What would lead to wood finish deterioration such as this?

Hunted hard and just shellac peeling off from hard use. They didn't put an oil finish on those Sterly's.

[orpington]

Orpington,
What is your concern about Savage/Utica vs. Philly gun? As Researcher said that gun is all Philly components. Possibly a gun that was all ready serial numbered and in the white when Savage purchased Fox. Hard to say for sure. I would not rely on the Lightner published serial number chronology that you may be referring to for a 1928 gun. It has been demonstrated that there is some incorrect information with that chronology.

Absolutely nothing wrong with a Savage/Utica gun!!! As for the stock the finish has flaked off so refinish it. Will not hurt value at all and will probably help. As for your your value estimation my opinion is that your on the high side for a Sterlingworth (Philly or Savage) for a gun in that condition. Fox small bores do command a higher price just like other SxS’s but condition and barrel length drives that value. As for the Bradley front bead I’d leave as is, won’t hurt or help value. Refinish the stock and enjoy the gun!!!

The quality did go down once Savage purchased Fox. What year did that occur?

Of course, if this shotgun is of parts manufactured in Philadelphia, then the only difference is the location on the barrel. But this was news to me and I learned this about my Fox Sterlingworth on this forum, and it caused me to pull my sake ad on it and I’ll keep it.

Also, I have since learned that shorter barrels are LESS desirable than longer ones. I suspect this is a shift from decades ago when it was such that shorter barrels were more popular. I think a compact gun for use in woods and brush was then desirable, but grouse are a rare bird these days and maybe this is what has led to the shift. A longer sighting plane would be more desirable, I suppose, when your game is now nothing more than a shattered clay pigeon.

I purchased this shotgun before, for me at least, the internet led to a smaller world and I was afraid another wouldn’t come along. I agreed to the deal before seeing this shotgun and was disappointed even at the time of purchase as to the condition of the wood finish. But I am true to my word and was afraid it might be awhile before I would see another one.

What would lead to wood finish deterioration such as this?

Hunted hard and just shellac peeling off from hard use. They didn't put an oil finish on those Sterly's.

And so, then, what about removing the shellac with denatured alcohol and then shellacking again?

[Jeff S]

I think a few people use acetone.

[vaturkey]

The quality did go down once Savage purchased Fox. What year did that occur?

Of course, if this shotgun is of parts manufactured in Philadelphia, then the only difference is the location on the barrel. But this was news to me and I learned this about my Fox Sterlingworth on this forum, and it caused me to pull my sake ad on it and I’ll keep it.

Also, I have since learned that shorter barrels are LESS desirable than longer ones. I suspect this is a shift from decades ago when it was such that shorter barrels were more popular. I think a compact gun for use in woods and brush was then desirable, but grouse are a rare bird these days and maybe this is what has led to the shift. A longer sighting plane would be more desirable, I suppose, when your game is now nothing more than a shattered clay pigeon.

I purchased this shotgun before, for me at least, the internet led to a smaller world and I was afraid another wouldn’t come along. I agreed to the deal before seeing this shotgun and was disappointed even at the time of purchase as to the condition of the wood finish. But I am true to my word and was afraid it might be awhile before I would see another one.

What would lead to wood finish deterioration such as this?

Hunted hard and just shellac peeling off from hard use. They didn't put an oil finish on those Sterly's.

And so, then, what about removing the shellac with denatured alcohol and then shellacking again?

What Jeff said below as far a using acetone to remove old finish. Lot of stockmakers are using Timberluxe now for both refinishing and for new stocks as well. Really easy to work with and one small bottle will do that stock for you. There are various Youtube video's out there on how to use it.

[Silvers]

(snip) ..... Hunted hard and just shellac peeling off from hard use. They didn't put an oil finish on those Sterly's.

Actually Sterlingworths of your vintage were finished with E I duPont's 'Duco" nitrocellulose lacquer with some stain added. Lacquer thinner might be better for cleanup of the stock.

I see the OP is a Life Member of Parker at something like $500. for the membership. You've gotten a lot of information here gratis. Ready to sign up as a AHFCA member? frank

[Stan Hillis]

Post deleted

[orpington]

(snip) ..... Hunted hard and just shellac peeling off from hard use. They didn't put an oil finish on those Sterly's.

Actually Sterlingworths of your vintage were finished with E I duPont's 'Duco" nitrocellulose lacquer with some stain added. Lacquer thinner might be better for cleanup of the stock.

I see the OP is a Life Member of Parker at something like $500. for the membership. You've gotten a lot of information here gratis. Ready to sign up as a AHFCA member? frank

I had forgotten about this forum and I think a Parker forum member reminded me of it.

Admittedly, some of the Parker forum members are obtuse and are in a league all their own. And I only have a couple of low grade Parker shotguns that were given to me. The reason for me joining is that I enjoy the Parker Pages magazine and I decided it was worthwhile to join to receive that for a lifetime.