Fox Collectors

I have a trigger plate screw that will not back out. The blade on my Brownell's screw driver bit bent when I tried to back it out. Any hints would be appreciated. Craig

Craig, do you have a drill press and vise available to you? If so, there's a procedure that has worked well for me and helps prevent damage to the screw slot.

(BTW, it does not involve drilling!)

Stan I am aware of that approach. The problem is the bit is bending before the screw moves.

They can be really tough! Try PB Blaster for several days.Bobby

Ive also held the trip down and used PB from the top

Craig, I've had a set of Brownell's bits for over 20 years, and have not had good luck breaking tough screws loose with them. Several have broken, and I've bent some, like you. It's gotten me gun shy of them for tough jobs, pardon the pun. I like to find, or grind, a "dedicated" screwdriver made of tougher steel, and hardened, for jobs like that.

Seems I have read of using a soldering iron tip to heat the screw head, allowing the heat to transfer down to the threaded shank. Doing this, alternately, with a good penetrating oil, is supposed to work well. But, I have yet to try that myself.

Stan Hillis wrote:Craig, I've had a set of Brownell's bits for over 20 years, and have not had good luck breaking tough screws loose with them. Several have broken, and I've bent some, like you. It's gotten me gun shy of them for tough jobs, pardon the pun. I like to find, or grind, a "dedicated" screwdriver made of tougher steel, and hardened, for jobs like that.

Seems I have read of using a soldering iron tip to heat the screw head, allowing the heat to transfer down to the threaded shank. Doing this, alternately, with a good penetrating oil, is supposed to work well. But, I have yet to try that myself.

I've read the same thing Stan. Never tried it. I've read Kroil oil works well in that situation to loosen things up but once again I've not tried that myself.

You would be surprised sometimes how much the bits can twist before the screw breaks free. And sometimes they do not break free. And sometimes the bit just shatters and never even bends. Trying with the drill press or mill will ensure that no matter which happens, that the screw is not damaged.

You may try putting the receiver in an ultrasonic cleaner for a good amount of time using hot (near boiling) water with ballistol in it. I've loosened some really corroded parts that way. Also drip kroil on it while hot...

I have broken badly-frozen screws (A-5s & M11 Remingtons) free before by douching the screw slot & well liberally with PB Blaster (use the specific label for freeing stuck "stuff"). LET IT SIT OVERNIGHT. Then I ground a cheap disposable square-shaft screwdriver to the exact width & depth of the screw slot and heated the tip about 1/8" back with a propane torch till it turned the color of a plum, then quenched it in used motor oil to temper. Used a small crescent wrench on the square shaft of the screw driver about 6" up from the tip for leverage. Holding the work in a padded vise, bear down on the screw while you apply leverage to the square-shafted driver shank and it should spin free. I always give the driver shaft a few taps with a mallet after I seat the bit in the screw slot. It's a wonderful thing to see!! Kevin