200371 “Slim”
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Re: 200371 “Slim”
Jeff,
Finish before or after checkering is up to whoever is cutting the diamonds...I have had ‘smiths request both ways. If the finish goes on first sometimes it chips out at the border and requires TLC to fix, but without finish some claim it is harder to cut as the cutter will want to follow the grain. Also depends on what tool they cut it with. I am not using amber shellac for this...if you would like to know what finish I will be using send me a PM. I’m not going to post anymore pics of this gun until it is completed. Also, the last pic I posted was before I cut out the flutes at the comb and also worked out all the small details. It looks exactly like the original and will have the same checkering cut. My gunsmiths were surprised how it looked, and after talking with them today I have finalized my approach on what and how I will finish the wood out.
Thanks,
Matt
Finish before or after checkering is up to whoever is cutting the diamonds...I have had ‘smiths request both ways. If the finish goes on first sometimes it chips out at the border and requires TLC to fix, but without finish some claim it is harder to cut as the cutter will want to follow the grain. Also depends on what tool they cut it with. I am not using amber shellac for this...if you would like to know what finish I will be using send me a PM. I’m not going to post anymore pics of this gun until it is completed. Also, the last pic I posted was before I cut out the flutes at the comb and also worked out all the small details. It looks exactly like the original and will have the same checkering cut. My gunsmiths were surprised how it looked, and after talking with them today I have finalized my approach on what and how I will finish the wood out.
Thanks,
Matt
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Re: 200371 “Slim”
Things are coming together on this build. I got a pic of the finished forend escutcheon from the engraver. I think it looks outstanding. Anyway, here is a pic. Also got new screws made up for these escutcheons because the NOS ones were too small for my liking. The new screws have oversized heads and I will fit that to the forend iron when they come in hopefully next week.
Cheers!
-Matt
Cheers!
-Matt
- Jeff S
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Re: 200371 “Slim”
Pretty escutcheon, but it's going to be a dog to inlet. Done well it will be awesome, but I'd hate to have to do the inletting.
SRH
SRH
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Re: 200371 “Slim”
Thanks guys, I’m hoping this project will be complete by the end of May at the very latest.
I’ll keep ya posted.
-Matt
I’ll keep ya posted.
-Matt
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Re: 200371 “Slim”
Stan Hillis wrote:My checkerer wants the finish applied before she does the checkering. IDKW.
SRH
Because that is the proper way to do it (as most who actually do it see it). but... to each their own.
,Brian Dudley
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Re: 200371 “Slim”
I should clarify my previous statement that it is MY opinion that it is the proper way to do it (checker after finish). And many feel the same way. I am in a checkering group on FB and whenever someone posts something related to checkering before finish the responses in favor of doing it after are easily 12 to 1.
I personally only see checkering before hand being useful if a finish is being sprayed where the checkering would be masked. But even then, the wood should really at least be sealed and partially filled in order for it to make sense (to me). Checkering totally raw wood just baffles me. but... some people do it. And a common pro I hear is about mistakes being more easily fixable. I suppose that is true. If you are prone to making mistakes and that is something you worry about.
If a time consuming hand rubbed finish is being applied to an already checkered stock the checkering WILL have to be cleaned up after the job is done, which means more work in the end. And if the one finishing is not the one checkering... then what? it goes back and forth more?
Personally, the only time I do any sort of checkering work before finish is in the case of a organic fill-in pattern (NOT a point pattern) that is intricate on the shape. I will lay out and lightly cut in the outline only of the pattern before finish. That way I can work through the design before hand and if something needs to be adjusted, it can be done without having to worry about a finish being there.
that way when the finish is done and it comes time to checker, the outline is there in the wood. it just has to be gone over and start cutting the spacing lines for the checkering.
If one is concerned about marking up a good finish, tape and things can be used to protect surrounding areas. Again, it is the only way that makes any sense to ME.
Years ago at a gun show a guy asked me about checkering a stock for him. He said he wanted to shape the stock and have it checkered and then he could do the finish. I told him that I checker after finish so he could give it to me after he had it done. He looked at my totally disgusted and just walked away without saying a word more. I guess he was in the "checker before" camp.
I personally only see checkering before hand being useful if a finish is being sprayed where the checkering would be masked. But even then, the wood should really at least be sealed and partially filled in order for it to make sense (to me). Checkering totally raw wood just baffles me. but... some people do it. And a common pro I hear is about mistakes being more easily fixable. I suppose that is true. If you are prone to making mistakes and that is something you worry about.
If a time consuming hand rubbed finish is being applied to an already checkered stock the checkering WILL have to be cleaned up after the job is done, which means more work in the end. And if the one finishing is not the one checkering... then what? it goes back and forth more?
Personally, the only time I do any sort of checkering work before finish is in the case of a organic fill-in pattern (NOT a point pattern) that is intricate on the shape. I will lay out and lightly cut in the outline only of the pattern before finish. That way I can work through the design before hand and if something needs to be adjusted, it can be done without having to worry about a finish being there.
that way when the finish is done and it comes time to checker, the outline is there in the wood. it just has to be gone over and start cutting the spacing lines for the checkering.
If one is concerned about marking up a good finish, tape and things can be used to protect surrounding areas. Again, it is the only way that makes any sense to ME.
Years ago at a gun show a guy asked me about checkering a stock for him. He said he wanted to shape the stock and have it checkered and then he could do the finish. I told him that I checker after finish so he could give it to me after he had it done. He looked at my totally disgusted and just walked away without saying a word more. I guess he was in the "checker before" camp.
,Brian Dudley
- Jeff S
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Re: 200371 “Slim”
Brian, if you don't mind, I'd like you to continue this discussion a little bit further. Years ago, I purchased a couple of new Brownings. As you probably know, the checking was "raw". However, I'm hoping that you can educate me a little. When people say raw, do they mean completely raw, or is there some sort of sealer that is applied? If it's completely raw, it seems like a certain amount of moisture could be absorbed into the wood. So, I understand that the stock has a nice stained finish that protects it and makes it look beautiful. Is the checkered area "completely" raw. I don't plan on doing any refinishing, but I would like to know just for my own education. Jeff
Shoot vintage firearms, relax, and have fun.
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Re: 200371 “Slim”
Some pics of the checkering. Matched to the factory buttstock nicely I’d say. A few over runs here and there, but all in all I think it looks fantastic and the price was right....went to pick it up and my smith Chuck said “today is your lucky day, it’s half-price Tuesday.” Anyway, about to start with the finish soon after I do a little touch up on the checkering, final block sanding, and then one mock-up with all the guts back in the gun to do a functions check and set the balance point before all the inletting gets sealed. I got some custom screws made up for the escutcheon by Louis Rotelli in CT...guy is one heck of a machinist and does real nice work so kudos to Louis for that. I’m keeping my checkering guy tight to the vest because he is local and his price for the quality of work is a great value for me here and on future projects, he will also be checkering my 16 gauge bargain sterly. That is all for now.
-Matt
-Matt
Last edited by Fox20obsessed on Fri May 15, 2020 9:07 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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