Fox Collectors

I agree 100% with the last comment. Thanks for posting. As of yesterday I have acquired all of the parts I will need to get this 16 gauge back in the field. Got a new buttstock, screws, and pins. I will have my gunsmith smooth out a few dents in the barrels and maybe do some choke work seeing as this is a shooter, but aside from that the gun will be pretty much built to factory specs. The buttstock I got for this one is semi-inletted and pretty darn nice too. I will reuse the original forend for this gun, but refinish it when I finish the new buttstock and freshen the checkering. Glad to add another shooter to the stable and get this old girl back in the field where it was meant to be as they say...stay tuned.
-Matt

Thanks Frank. I straightened out the top lever using your suggestions. No heat was required.
-Matt

Nice work and very straight.

I see the barrels aren't on the gun and something shiny is inside the barrel extension slot. I assume that's a new or original/polished locking bolt? In any case on Fox small bores there's limited room inside the frame and often with the barrels off and bolt tripped the lever won't swing much left of center. Of course no one wants to see the lever left of center with barrels on but if it can't move much left with barrels off that typically means the locking bolt probably isn't exerting max camming force inside the barrel extension. There isn't any quickie solution except to study the entire lever-bolt mechanism with barrels off to see what's impeding the lever from moving far left of center and then correct that. This is advanced Foxese and usually best left to good proven Fox "smiths.

frank

Thanks for the compliment Frank. Like we discussed on here I just went real slow and made multiple “bends” until I got it good by my eye...I didn’t dare bend it past straight.
The action is completely stripped in that last photo with just the action screws and top lever “in”. Fortunately this gun locks up still well-right of center. I have had one or two in the past where the lever wouldn’t travel much past center and the gun was slightly loose because of it. Now that my metal work is complete I will begin restocking this gun shortly. Never thought I would be restocking two fox smallbores simultaneously, but I guess dreams do occasionally come true.
-Matt

After looking at the top lever more and more I decided that I thought there was still a slight bend in it to the right. After putting the rotary bolt, yoke, yoke screw, and top lever back in the gun and mounting the barrels I verified this...the top lever was still too far right of the tang. I feel like the right side of the lever should be just about flush with the right edge of the top tang on a tight gun. So after looking at the lever while watching TV the other night I decided that not only did it still have a slight bend but also a little twist. This morning while my daughter napped I meticulously twisted and bent the lever and it is now perfectly straight as an arrow (to my eye). I’m pleased because I just felt that it still looked “off” and I was concerned it would significantly detract from the aesthetics of this sweet sterly. I have attached a pic of the gun with lever locked up with the barrels on...I think it looks much better now. With the top lever spring, follower, and ball screw back in the right edge of the top lever aligns with the right edge of the top tang perfectly.
Thanks,
Matt

PS. The method outlined by Silvers earlier in this thread works like a charm. I followed the technique he outlined step by step and it is easy. Thanks again Frank!

Looks good Matt.

Nice job Matt and thanks for the tip the hat.

I like set the thumb piece edge just a little inside the right side of the top tang when work is done on the bolting mechanism. All too often some 'smith will put in a new rotary bolt, the thumb piece is way right, and the guy calls it a day and tells the customer there's plenty of movement for wear. Actually there's very little wear on a properly fitted bolt/barrel extension that's kept lubricated with a tiny spot of grease that's changed often, frank

Thanks guys! I almost have the new stock for this gun fitted to the action now. Turning out pretty good so far. The semi-inlet I’m using for this gun had the tabs at the head of the stock so I fit them into the back of the frame where the hammers swing too, I really like when I’m able to do that as I feel it adds a ton of strength to the stock overall. The piece of wood is so-so, more like American black walnut (Juglans nigra) sapwood, but it should be ok. Anyway, Frank I like to give credit where it is due...so thank you again. PS loved your post on microwelding screw slots and other various microwelding repairs on the members only forum. Will probably start a new thread for this project gun now as things are moving forward and my metal work is pretty much done beside engraving the new floor plate screw. Stay Tuned Fox Nation.
Thanks,
Matt

Been a while for this project, but the restock is coming along...I made a new forend and buttstock and both will be checkered using factory patterns. Should make a nice shooter when wrapped up. Still have a fair amount of shaping to do, gotta inlet the trigger guard after I profile the grip and get the grip cap mounted.
-Matt

Nice! You obviously have a lot of talent. You'll get a lot of satisfaction knocking down birds with a gun that you rebuilt.

Matt, The stock is looking good, the grain should pop out nice when finished. Jeff

Now that my A-grade 20 project “slim” is completed and awaiting it’s final coat of renaissance wax next week I will be finishing up this 16 bore. With all of the inletting already completed (done by yours truly again) all that’s left to do is fit the grip cap, finish the shaping, have it checkered, and apply finish. If anyone is interested I would be more than happy to post pics as the project approaches completion...just say the word. This gun will be finished out in the factory style with the minor addition of a used ejector escutcheon to the forend. I’d like to give Tom (vaturkey) a tip of the hat for helping me with the escutcheon, much appreciated! I have made numerous posts on my other project and don’t want anyone to feel as though I am posting too much.
Thanks guys,
Matt

Please do post pictures as you finish it up . As others have said you do great work and I would love to see the finished product.

fn16ga,
You got it. To all those that have taken the time to post...thank you as well. I’ll try my best to keep things updated as things move forward. At this point I am slowly reducing the overall length and thickness of the pistol grip to make it “philly style”. The semi inlet I got for this gun had the bulky savage era capless pistol grip and needs a lot of wood taken off to make it right. After I get that done I will fit a NOS checkered grip cap that I got through a deal with a friend. This grip cap is pretty sweet because it is factory NOS and it has anti-spin pins as seen on many parkers. I’ve yet to remove a factory grip cap from any fox and see the aforementioned “spin pins” as my local ‘smith likes to call them. Cap came with a new screw as well that will match the NOS savage buttplate I am using with new screws as well. I almost hate to use this grip cap for this gun because the checkered sterly caps are becoming increasingly difficult to find, but in order to do this thing up right I feel it is imperative. This gun will remain my only 16 and will probably see a fair amount of rainy day pheasants.
-Matt