snap on forearm adjustment

birdawg · Post by **birdawg** » Tue Mar 17, 2009 2:59 pm

I have a Sterlingworth that the forearm was lost on before I bought the gun and I purchased a replacement on one of the gun site's.

Well, it almost fits!

Actually it feels like if I pushed hard enough the forearm would snap in. Then again it might just snap so I don't want to go that far.

With all of that in mind, I am wondering if there is a quick adjustment that can be made without sending the gun to someone who is actually qualified to work on these old girls? Or is this a don't try this at home job?
Thanks
Jess

Twice Barrel · Post by **Twice Barrel** » Tue Mar 17, 2009 9:38 pm

Does the forend snap into place when the barrels are not mounted on the receiver?

bbman3 · Post by **bbman3** » Tue Mar 17, 2009 9:41 pm

Jess, i have a very early 16 ga AE with the sterlingworth type snap on forend. When i got it it was nearly impossible to remove the forend. I used a part of wooden clothes pin with plastic electrial tape to prevent marring the gun and had to wedge it under forend and use rubber hammer to tap forend off. Whew! Anyway i replaced the blade piece i call it on barrel lug and that corrected the problem. Bobby

birdawg · Post by **birdawg** » Tue Mar 17, 2009 10:05 pm

No it doesn't go on without the barrels being mounted.

Silvers · Post by **Silvers** » Wed Mar 18, 2009 7:06 am

Good morning Jess. Fox forends were hand fitted and although the SW has a snap type latch, all the mechanical tolerances must be in synch. It's possible the forend wood is hitting the barrels and preventing the forend from completely latching. You can check that by putting a small piece of thin paper between the f/e wood and the barrels and trying to snap on the forend. If the paper is caught fast well before the f/e tries to latch that is undoubtedly the problem. Try that on both sides of the f/e, over each barrel. In this case the high spots in the wood "flutes" will have to be relieved.

If that checks out ok, no interference from the wood, a remote possibility is the tab on the forend knuckle that pushes against the cocking slide (on the barrel lug) is too long on the replacement f/e and is trying to push the cocking slide past its rearward limit of travel. In that case the tab will have to be shortened and I would recommend having a professional do it so it doesn't get too short and cause a hammer cocking problem. A similar scenario would happen if the cocking slide is rusty/corroded and unable to move fully backwards in the barrel lug slots. I've seen that on two Foxes over the years. In that case a good cleaning with solvent and re-lubing will solve the problem. I hope these suggestions help. Frank

mike campbell · Post by **mike campbell** » Wed Mar 18, 2009 9:34 am

[quote="Silvers"] Fox forends were hand fitted and although the SW has a snap type latch, all the mechanical tolerances must be in synch. /quote]

Jess,

Like Silvers says, it needs to be fitted with proper tolerances. Even if the forend went on effortlessly, it wouldn't necessarily mean it fits. Parts don't interchange between guns for 2 reasons; either there's too much or too little metal in critical places on the new part. Odds are, you've lucked out and fitting the new iron will require removing some metal rather than adding it.
Anyway, the proper sequence would be to remove the iron from the wood and fit it to the gun with barrels assembled. Only after the metal is properly fit would I consider altering the wood.

birdawg · Post by **birdawg** » Wed Mar 18, 2009 9:48 am

Guys

Thanks for the suggestions and insight. I will remove the iron and give it a look.

dragon · Post by **dragon** » Wed Mar 18, 2009 3:20 pm

were is a good place to find repro stocks and forearms for an sw