Noshoc pad vs Silvers pad

mc15426378 · Post by **mc15426378** » Thu Jan 15, 2009 10:58 pm

I just installed a repop Noshoc pad from CSMC/Galazan on a 16 of mine. Turned out nice. Have not been able to use the gun in the field but the addition of the pad really makes the POA much easier to just throw it up and pull without thinking of lining everything up. Thought some might like to see the pad installed and then compared against an actual Silvers pad. Please excuse the finish on the 16 stock as it is to be a project after hunting seasons are over. How does the repop Noshoc look to those of you with a genuine Noshoc?

Mike

Noshoc

Noshoc

Noshoc vs Silvers

Brian · Post by **Brian** » Fri Jan 16, 2009 5:05 am

Nice job

who's jig did you use?
hand finish the sides with 220 W/D and WD40 or kero?

gspspinone · Post by **gspspinone** » Fri Jan 16, 2009 6:24 am

Nice job......Thinking of doing the same thing, how about posting the steps and tools used.

Silvers · Post by **Silvers** » Fri Jan 16, 2009 7:39 am

Very nice work indeed! IMO the Noshoc pad is a much better choice for a smallbore Fox than a Silvers with its huge plugs. Frank

wburns · Post by **wburns** » Fri Jan 16, 2009 2:17 pm

I have done several pads for myself and others. They are very easy to do. I purchased the Miles Gilbert tool listed below from Midway USA.
Miles Gilbert Recoil Pad Installation FixtureProduct #: 658338Status: AvailableOur Price:$46.99
It came with very clear instructions. Besides the tool all you need is a belt sander (preferably one that can be ran in a vertical position), a grease pencil, square, wet/dry sandpaper, sanding block, furniture oil or wd40 to spray on for the final sanding and fitting.
I start out by removing the old but plate or pad, laying the new pad on the stock, locating old holes if you are going to reuse them, or marking with a scribe through the holes in the pad of where you need to drill the new ones. Once this part is accomplished I attach the pad to the stock and then mark with a grease pencil, or any pencil that you can see the line easy enough, around the stock to show what material needs to be removed. Then I remove the pad from the gun and put the pad in the freezer over night. This helps stiffen the material when it comes time to grind it. Some of the soft pads can be hard to get clean edges on if you don't freeze them.
(The next part is shown better in the directions with the tool than I can write )I take my instalation tool and tilt it to meet the angle of the bottom line of the stock and set this part of the tool, then do the same thing for the top line (comb) of the stock, then tighten it down. The tool has settings so that midway through grinding you loosen a screw in the middle which tilts the pad back and forth similar to a tetertoter. You will see why you tilt it as you read on.
Then I attach the pad to the tool and grind the material off halfway to the mid section of the pad. Do not grind any further or you get a funny shaped pad when you are done. Once you have ground till the marked line has almost disappeared. Loosen the center screw and tilt until the set screw which you previously set bottoms out. Tighten the middle screw and grind the unground half of the pad. This gives you the angle comming off of your stock so you have a smooth transition from stock to pad. When you reach the mid section of the pad feather your edges together to create a smooth transition. Once this is done you can remove the pad and start the final fitting.
I then attach the pad to the gun and mark any material that hangs over the edge of the stock. I then put the pad back in the freezer if the material is soft otherwise I just spray it down with furniture oil or WD-40 and start sanding with a sanding block with 220 grit wet/dry until I have removed the excess material. Be sure to keep checking the pad against the stock to make sure that you do not over sand.
It may sound harder than it is, but it is quite simple once you have done one. If anyone has any questions pm me. If no one else post directions, next time I do one I will photograph the steps and do a better write up and post it. Hope this helps.

wburns · Post by **wburns** » Fri Jan 16, 2009 2:20 pm

By the way, they look identical to the real thing. I just purchased a noshoc from Galazan and when set next to my original one on my Remington 1900, I cant tell the difference other than the new one is not shiney or stained from age.

mc15426378 · Post by **mc15426378** » Fri Jan 16, 2009 2:22 pm

Great post. Better than I could have written. Almost exactly what I do with my pads.

Mike

wburns · Post by **wburns** » Fri Jan 16, 2009 2:36 pm

Thanks Mike,
Its hard to describe stuff like that without sounding to long winded

.

gspspinone · Post by **gspspinone** » Sat Jan 17, 2009 7:31 am

Thanks guys, I'll probably purchase the tool as I always need more LOP and like the looks of a Silver's style pad.

FRBRIT · Post by **FRBRIT** » Sat Jan 17, 2009 10:40 am

I just purchased one of the re-pro no-shock pads from Galazans myself. I haven't installed it yet but here's my initial take on it.

The pad is almost the exact same pad as the Winchester re-pro pad that Galazans offers with just the logo changed. It is a solid pad that is very hard and wouldn't do much for reducing felt recoil. Where as the Galazans Silvers pad is hollow and softer. The back side of the pad measures 5 5/16" long, just shy of 1 3/4" wide at the widest point, with hole spacing of 3 1/16" center to center, the thickness of it varies from toe to heel it's 1" at the toe, 3/4" at the center, and 1" again at the heel.

I'm not calling it one way or the other. I just thought you might be interested in some facts about it from a guy holding a new one in his hand. I'll leave the decision of which is best up to you.

wburns · Post by **wburns** » Sat Jan 17, 2009 11:17 am

I have both an original Noshoc that is in perfect condition and the new one from Galazan. There ia very little difference between the two when it comes to their squishiness. Both pads tend to be on the hard side. I think they are nice looking and they are enough to dampen the recoil for me. However, if you have a harder kicking gun the silvers pad sounds like a good way to go.