Broken Ejector Guide Pin Removal
Broken Ejector Guide Pin Removal
A while back Frank Srebro, Stan Hillis and others posted some threads on how to remove and replace a broken ejector guide pin from the breech. I recently encountered this on one of my high grade guns and thought I would pass on a neat trick that helped me remove the pin with minimal difficulty and "invasive procedure(s"). After a brief discussion with Dan Rossiter about the prats & pitfalls of "trying this at home', one of the things he suggested was the use of a 'rare earth' magnet (in this case Neodymium), which are very powerful and exert a magnetic force many times that of a conventional (e.g., ALNICO) magnet.
First I removed the ejectors and set them aside to allow for complete space access to the breech face. Since the broken guide pin was still embedded in the race (channel) that it moves back and forth in, I first needle-dropped a VERY small amount of Break-Free CLP into the race and let the barrels sit vertically overnight. Next day I blew the race out with compressed air (low power computer cleaning aerosol can), and gently tapped on the underside and barrel breech side of the race with a plastic mallet. I then put another micro-drop of CLP into the race and applied the magnet(s) while holding the barrels in a padded vise horizontally. After a couple of gentle taps and another short burst of air, the magnets pulled the pin right out.
Since that's about all of the type of amateur gunsmithing I'm willing to risk (and have the proper tools for), I stopped there. In the cleanup, I flushed both ejector pin races out with CLP and ran a Q-Tip with the fuzzy end cut off (resulting diameter is about perfect fit) in and out of each race to loosen debris and then blew them out once again with the air. I carefully set the broken pin aside and will deliver it to Dan for final repair/replacement.
You can use any number of cleaning/loosening penetrants for this and other stuck-stuff jobs; I like Break-Free CLP and have used it for years with very good results. Other good products are PB Blaster Penetrant & Loosener, Kroil, and any good gun oil cut with a little C9 solvent. Whatever, don't use too much - slathering the breech area makes a mess and deprives you of a clean and dry work area.
Check out the prior threads mentioned, especially Frank's very detailed explanation of the stress factors encountered along the ejector train during and after firing and ejection and you will see how important proper maintenance and repair of the guide pins demands attention. (Just enter 'ejector guide pin repair/replacement' in the search box and they will come up).
Lastly, the 'rare earth' series magnets are readily available (I got mine at Home Depot!) and they are CHEAP! - I think I paid just under $4 for a pack of 10 magnets (you want the small ones; .315 in. diameter here) so you can stack them in a column, which exerts tremendous pull on metal. I have enclosed a picture below showing the product. Thanks, Kevin
First I removed the ejectors and set them aside to allow for complete space access to the breech face. Since the broken guide pin was still embedded in the race (channel) that it moves back and forth in, I first needle-dropped a VERY small amount of Break-Free CLP into the race and let the barrels sit vertically overnight. Next day I blew the race out with compressed air (low power computer cleaning aerosol can), and gently tapped on the underside and barrel breech side of the race with a plastic mallet. I then put another micro-drop of CLP into the race and applied the magnet(s) while holding the barrels in a padded vise horizontally. After a couple of gentle taps and another short burst of air, the magnets pulled the pin right out.
Since that's about all of the type of amateur gunsmithing I'm willing to risk (and have the proper tools for), I stopped there. In the cleanup, I flushed both ejector pin races out with CLP and ran a Q-Tip with the fuzzy end cut off (resulting diameter is about perfect fit) in and out of each race to loosen debris and then blew them out once again with the air. I carefully set the broken pin aside and will deliver it to Dan for final repair/replacement.
You can use any number of cleaning/loosening penetrants for this and other stuck-stuff jobs; I like Break-Free CLP and have used it for years with very good results. Other good products are PB Blaster Penetrant & Loosener, Kroil, and any good gun oil cut with a little C9 solvent. Whatever, don't use too much - slathering the breech area makes a mess and deprives you of a clean and dry work area.
Check out the prior threads mentioned, especially Frank's very detailed explanation of the stress factors encountered along the ejector train during and after firing and ejection and you will see how important proper maintenance and repair of the guide pins demands attention. (Just enter 'ejector guide pin repair/replacement' in the search box and they will come up).
Lastly, the 'rare earth' series magnets are readily available (I got mine at Home Depot!) and they are CHEAP! - I think I paid just under $4 for a pack of 10 magnets (you want the small ones; .315 in. diameter here) so you can stack them in a column, which exerts tremendous pull on metal. I have enclosed a picture below showing the product. Thanks, Kevin
Last edited by Sporrns on Wed May 16, 2018 4:38 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: Broken Ejector Guide Pin Removal
Thanks, Keven. Very good explaination and a useful tip.
Jim
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Re: Broken Ejector Guide Pin Removal
Thanks Kevin for a tip of the hat. Often the pins are still straight and relatively easily removed, and in that case your super magnet is a great idea. Thanks for posting. At other times the pin had been bent before being broken off in its carrier hole and it will resist. Your post reminds me of one of the latter I worked on for a friend; it was a high end Fox with special provenance and the last resort was to set up the barrels offset the Bridgeport table and plunge mill it with an end mill ground a little undersize. Unfortunately the carrier hole(s) are often not exactly parallel with the barrel lump, and I told him that might be the case on his and hence the end mill wouldn't follow the carrier hole which would cerate a larger problem to bush it/redrill. He opted to leave the Fox "as is" and as far as I know it's still that way in his safe and he avoids firing it for fear for breaking the ejector.
frank

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Re: Broken Ejector Guide Pin Removal
Very good idea, Kevin. I didn't know about rare earth magnets. Around here they're still called "lodestones".
I hope I never need to remove another one, but I'll have a set of those magnets on hand if I do. That must be what they put on those name badges that go on your shirt, where you put the magnet on the inside of your shirt. Those little suckers are strong.
Best, SRH

I hope I never need to remove another one, but I'll have a set of those magnets on hand if I do. That must be what they put on those name badges that go on your shirt, where you put the magnet on the inside of your shirt. Those little suckers are strong.
Best, SRH
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Re: Broken Ejector Guide Pin Removal
Interesting Kevin, thanks. Never heard of earth magnets either.
tjw
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Re: Broken Ejector Guide Pin Removal
I saw a guy at the trap range use one of those magnets on the receiver of an A5 Browning near the ejection port, as a shell catcher. I was amazed at how strong those things are.
Recoil is most noticed when I miss
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Re: Broken Ejector Guide Pin Removal
I looked at HD but did not see any exactly like those shown.Bobby
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Re: Broken Ejector Guide Pin Removal
Bobby: Just type in "Magnet Source Neodymium Disc Magnets" on Ebay Search and it will come up. The cost is about $11.00 including shipping for a pack of 10 same package shown on Fox site. I typed the same words on "Goggle.com" and got the same results only packs of 5 for $5.00 with a $10.00 minimum order, that did not include shipping.
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Re: Broken Ejector Guide Pin Removal
As a followup to this, I just the other day utilized this method to remove a broken guide pin on a superfox.
Several days of letting broil soak in. I then heated the surrounding area with a torch to allow oil penetration and expansion to loosen the pin. I placed a stack of 10 magnets over the hole and then tapped on the barrel flats above the hole with a brass hammer. After a few taps the pin sucked out onto the magnets.
Several days of letting broil soak in. I then heated the surrounding area with a torch to allow oil penetration and expansion to loosen the pin. I placed a stack of 10 magnets over the hole and then tapped on the barrel flats above the hole with a brass hammer. After a few taps the pin sucked out onto the magnets.
,Brian Dudley