Help removing hammers

[bb_shot]

The pictures below are to big to put in one post, sorry for the size. I used instructions posted on this forum to get this far, but I must be missing something or something is stuck? I removed to hammer pin and tapped both hammers off the frame hammer block and the hammers have to come out. I understand that this happens, but I've worked the hammers off and on the hammer block and nothing has loosened. I can't find a schematic drawing and I am going off of what I can find in the McIntosh Fox book.

1st Pic Hammers on the hammer block in frame

[bb_shot]

2nd Pic Hammers off Hammer block in frame

[bb_shot]

3rd Pic One arrow is pointing to what I believe to be the hammer spring plunger and the other arrow is what I'm calling the cocking rod? Is this rod supposed to come off the plunger and the plunger comes out with the hammer spring?

[Silvers]

Nice, a B Grade. Why are you taking it apart?

Third pic: the right arrow is pointing to the "stirrup". Left arrow to the "mainspring follower".

Starting where you're at now. Get a small brass rod about 3/32" in diameter, insert it into the firing pin hole in the breech face and tap the rod backwards with a small hammer. Same for each firing hammer. I use a piece of uncoated brazing rod. Leave the stirrup on the hammer, no need to remove it.

If you're not already a member you might consider joining up to the AHFCA.

frank

[Sporrns]

Holy Ch***t a B grade! For God sakes be careful and go slowly!! Kevin

[bb_shot]

Thanks Frank. When the hammers are moved off the hammer block the firing pins are out of the frame holes, I would still use a 1/16" punch to move the hammers? I dripped kroil on all bearing surface hoping to free up.

[Silvers]

Just keep tapping/pushing backwards on the 3/32" rod through the firing pin hole in the standing breech until the hammer(s) pops out. It's being held in place by some slight compression of the mainspring. Once the hammer tip clears the frame you may push against the top of the hammer. No Kroil or similar should be required. Again, I recommend you use a brass punch because it's initially pushing against the tip of the firing pin which is integral with the hammer(s). If you can't find 3/32" diameter brass get an old fashioned brazing rod at the hardware and scrape off the flux coating.

frank

[bb_shot]

Wow, thanks again I really appreciate the help. I'm taking it slow as I normally do. I've got experience with Ithaca NID, Flues, LC Smith, and A&D actions. The Fox is very similar to the NID. Ithaca obviously saw what really works and copied much.

[bb_shot]

Frank, absolutely brilliant! Your method worked better than the other suggested method. Much easier. Thanks again.