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New member here, but I've been collecting for most of my life. I picked up a B grade 12ga today and I have a few questions. I've figured alot out by reading the info on the main pages, but I still have a few.
The gun is an ejector gun, but the water table stamp is just a B, should there be a BE there?? I have determined it is an early one, both by the engraving and a 10107 serial number, could the ejectors be a retrofit?? The barrel stamp underneath shows a 2 for the barrel weight, is that typical for a 12ga B?? Also the forend is a little loose when mounted to the tubes. The wood isn't loose on the iron, the whole thing kind of slops around a little bit, any suggestions on tightening that up??
She's not much to look at and has seen better days but I like it, and with a little cleaning and some tlc she ought to clean up nice. I'm looking forward to next weekend to see how she does on those evil sporting clays, I'm bored of making clay dust with my Parker and my L.C. Smith.
Welcome to the AHFCA and thank for your membership. Your B is a very nice early style from about 1906. The water tables were only marked with the grade (B) even if the gun was shipped with ejectors. #2 weight barrels are unusual not not rare, most seem to be #3 or #4 from my observations. Your membership entitles to you to a one free card look up per year and a card does exist for your gun. Go to the members only forum and request a card. It appears to as very nice gun with exception of a damaged trigger plate screw-----overall just the way I like to find them. Craig
Thanks for the info Craig I appreciate it. As for the damaged trigger plate screw, I saw that, it's a shame but what can you do. I pulled the wood off last night to see if I could figure out why it was taken apart, and luckily I was able to figure it out. Somewhere along the way, the screw that holds the pin from the bolt to the top lever broke off. They replaced it with just a regular machine screw and gray epoxied it into place. Once I saw the epoxy I knew that it didn't leave Philadelphia like that so that was a dead giveaway. Now I just need to find the correct replacement screw and that should fix the loose top lever/rotary bolt issue that piece has. Thankfully they didn't damage any of the other screws, so I can just replace the one and be good to go. Thanks again for the info, I'm looking forward to shooting it and seeing how it does.
Welcome to the fold. Interpreting your post description, it seems you'll need a new "yoke screw". Try to find a brand new one because its thread end is peened over when installed correctly, and when it's removed it's hard to repeen to a different yoke. Yoke is the part that connects the lever spindle to the rotary bolt. Also, it's common for one side of the split yoke to crack/break when the screw is loose. Inspect carefully and get a new yoke if you need one. Sometimes the so-called NOS replacement yokes are not drilled and tapped for the yoke screw and it's imperative to get one that is - because the screw hole must be dead nuts in the correct location. Possibly some members can help you out and you might try posting your needs on the Members Forum. I hope this is helpful. Frank
Any and all information is very helpful Frank, I know a lot about a few things, but as they say you learn something new everyday. I did not see a crack in the yoke, but I do have about a 1/16" of slack on either side of it to the sides of the top lever post. I feel confident in saying again it didn't leave Philadelphia like that, but I don't know for certain. Plus the amount of crud and crust and grime inside that receiver is astonishing, I wouldn't be surprised if that's why the screw broke in the first place. A complete and thorough cleaning is in order to try and clear some of that up. Once that's done, I'll inspect closer to see if that yoke is indeed broken. I did see the evidence of the peening you mentioned, would I be able to replace the screw and then stake it back into place?? I don't have a problem replacing the whole assembly if that is the correct method, provided I can find what I need. I want the gun safe and functional, my pieces don't hang on a wall and look pretty, I use them for what they were made for, and then they get to hang on the wall and look pretty. Thanks again for the info. Jim
Mills wrote:It seems we don't hear too much about B Grades, compared to other grades. That sure is a nice example. Enjoy shooting it!
Thanks for the compliments, I appreciate it. I have had it in my possession for less than 24 hours, but I'm barely able to sit still in anticipation of shooting it. It will certainly look good on the wall with the A grade's and the Sterlingworth's I have, but your right, this is the first B grade I've seen and had the opportunity to purchase. It took me 24 hours to decide to make the purchase, but now that it's done, I am glad I did.
Jim, there will probably be enough to repeen the end of the yoke screw to the yoke it was originally fitted to. However the 1/16" of slack on either side of the "top lever post" is not right (if you are referring to the spindle below the top lever). The fit should be very tight, almost a light press fit, when the yoke screw is tightened and peened. Just enough slack to allow the yoke to move up and down on the lever spindle and not bind as the lever is moved. Just so you know I will not be able to answer additional questions on this for a few days, and if you need anything else, some of the other members will probably step up to the plate.
Your B is a very nice early style from about 1906.
Probably at least a couple of years later than that. The A.H. Fox Gun Co. was still at Wayne & Bristol Streets for most of 1906. The bird doesn't appear on the B-Grade catalogue pictures until the first "Campfire" catalogue of late 1907 --
B-Grades of 1905 - 06 had just a bit more flourishes than the A-Grade --
Thanks again for the info and compliments guys. I will get into the yoke and yoke screw and see what I can figure out there to make it correct. As for the year, I got the card for it and in the ship box it says Feb 1, but then it has a stamp on the card with a May 1908 date, not quite sure what that means. Also looking at some other resources online, the charts I'm seeing puts the date very early January 1910, so I really don't know what to think. Though it's hard to dispute the original card, just not sure what that May 1908 stamp is. Other than the date confusion the card matches the gun perfectly, down to the ejectors and the factory installed recoil pad.
Thank you for that clarification, Craig. I wasn't sure on that, now I know. Maunfacture date isn't really important, but I'm glad to have an idea just the same. Thanks again for everything.
