Price Check- SW 20ga

wscovell · Post by **wscovell** » Wed Oct 17, 2007 3:24 pm

First a thanks to those who helped answer my ?s about the 16ga SW I just bought. I'm not too sure how prevalent the smallbore SW are from region to region, but I stumbled across a possible project gun and would like a price check.
It's a Philly-era non-ejector SW in 20ga that would have to be restocked due to it's having been cut for a child or lady, but mechanically very good. Old gentleman selling wants $1400 and I doubt I can get him to budge as he has some sentimental feelings for this gun. I don't have the serial # handy, but it looks like it has uncut 26" #3 weight tubes, 95% original blue w/o dents, dings and mirror bores. Couldn't check choke constrictions. Action is tight on face and lever well right of center. CC is ~60-70%. Forearm wood is okay, but would prob get changed out in a restock. . .
The plan percolating in the back of my head would be to pick this up and have it restocked in a straight stock w/ relatively plain grade walnut that fits the SW and use as a fun, light-weight snap shooter. Who knows, maybe in another 5-10 years look into doing an upgrade on this one. For those more savvy than me and for those who've been down this path, what are your thoughts? TIA, Bill

Ken Hurst · Post by **Ken Hurst** » Wed Oct 17, 2007 4:00 pm

Bill, the major part of the restocking cost is the labor involved. Please give thought to buying a nice piece of wood instead of plain piece --- cost the same to restock pretty wood as plain. Also, down the road, you won't have to have it restocked again. FWIW & IMHO, Ken

wscovell · Post by **wscovell** » Wed Oct 17, 2007 4:55 pm

Ken, thanks for the advice. From lurking around this and other sites, I know your opinion is always held in the highest regard along w/ your work. I was debating the issue of wood grade to use. I learned the hard way restoring an old MGA car a few years back. The cost of labor and my time was the same had I been working on a more expensive Healey, or Jag. The price point between parts wasn't that great for the different cars either. The biggest take-home lessons I took from that experience were to a) do it because the car (gun) really speaks to you b/c otherwise you'll never be able to justify the cost, and b) buy the best example you can afford as the basketcase you got a good deal on ends up costing much more in the long haul. While there are definite dissimilarities b/t the car resto and buying a gun, I figure some aspects are bound to hold true.
From what I gather after spending a few hundred $ for the blank and another 1000-1500 for the stocking (am I off much with these #s?) I could pay retail prices for an orig 20ga SW on the net or perhaps come w/i striking distance of one of the lower graded guns. Part of my interest however in this gun is that I want a project and the second is that I can parcel the costs out over time.
Re the SW, I haven't yet decided how I feel concerning having an "upgrade" performed. If the gun stays as a utilitarian SW, pretty in it's own right, I wonder if it would look out of place with really nice wood. . .

Ken Hurst · Post by **Ken Hurst** » Wed Oct 17, 2007 5:42 pm

Mr. Bill ---- I can give you some real money saving ideas if you give me a call. I'm always in the shop so am easy to contact. Call me at 910-221-5288 EST. Ken

mike campbell · Post by **mike campbell** » Thu Oct 18, 2007 2:02 am

"If the gun stays as a utilitarian SW, pretty in it's own right, I wonder if it would look out of place with really nice wood. . ."

Bill,

I've done a number of these and am of the same mind as Ken. Buy a blank that you admire and have at it. All of mine wear stocks more beautiful than any original ever made. When you're all done, you have a "utilitarian" SW that differs from an XE only in the "scratching" as Ken calls it....and that can be rectified later.

I used to call my guns "upgraded SW's", now I call them XE projects still in the works.

Here's a ccouple of my "XE projects". You'd have to get awful close to tell they haven't been engraved yet....

wscovell · Post by **wscovell** » Thu Oct 18, 2007 6:26 pm

WOW! I see what you guys mean. . .
Out of curiosity, because of the "hidden" SW forearm fastener, there's no way to change this out for a higher grade type latch, or is there?
Also, as far as providing an engraver with very detailed pictures of a higher grade pattern to go by, where should I turn? The pictures I've seen of case colored actions are a bit hard to see the detail in. Any etchings, stencils or the like? Bill

Fin2Feather · Post by **Fin2Feather** » Thu Oct 18, 2007 7:08 pm

Hey Mike,

Who dusts all that stuff for you anyway

?

PeteM · Post by **PeteM** » Fri Oct 19, 2007 12:37 am

Send Ceci Fredi an email. Tell him what you want and give him a price range. He will usually send you 4 or 5 pictures to look over. Not happy, ask for more. Need a close up, ask him. Great man to deal with.
http://www.gunstockblanks.com/

When you are ready. Send the blank with old stock to Ed Shulin. He will duplicate it and send it back for about $100.

SHULIN STOCK WORKS
Ed Shulin
16511 Co. Rd. 75.1
Trinidad, CO 81082
Phone: 719-846-2301

All that is left is the final fitting, shaping, sanding and checkering. If you can do any of those yourself, you can save a bit.

You may want to give Dan May a call about finishing the wood, etc.
http://www.classicgunstocks.com/homepage.html

If just need some one to checker it, call Tim Lyon-Smith
http://www.classiccheckering.com/index.html

Pete