Utica Sterly...locks up tight but not tight on its face

[nca225]

I'm looking at another Utica Savage Sterlingworth, that does not look to be used much. It locks up tight, the bores are clean and bright and unmolested. What draws my concern is that I can see light between the flats of the barrels and the flats of the receiver where the serial number is stamped. I understand that the workmanship on the later Utica Savage Sterlingworths was not as good as Philly Steringworths, so is it common to find them not being tight on the face and thusly of no concern or is it a problem I'm going to have to have a gunsmith check out? I would like to move on this or pass, so any info is greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
-Chris

[MARSHFELLOW]

My understanding is that you would want to see a sliver of light right in that very spot.

tjw

[mike campbell]

"What draws my concern is that I can see light between the flats of the barrels and the flats of the receiver where the serial number is stamped."

The flats of the receiver is the "water table" and you should see light between the two. As wear occurs at the barrel hook/hinge pin interface face the barrels will set deeper into the action....the toplever will move towards center and the light gap you see will diminish. The barrels will remain "on the face" (the barrels will be tight against the vertical breech "face") as this occurs; just as yopur brakes remain in perfect working order as the pads grow thinner. When the light gap is gone and the barrels can move no closer to the water table the slop that originated at the hinge will show up at the breech face. As long as I can pinch a dollar bill (.003- .004) between the the barrels and breach I don't consider them "off face."

"I understand that the workmanship on the later Utica Savage Sterlingworths was not as good as Philly Steringworths,....I don't judge a litter by one pup.... so is it common to find them not being tight on the face....see above. The condition you've desribed is by design....and thusly of no concern or is it a problem I'm going to have to have a gunsmith check out? I would like to move on this or pass, so any info is greatly appreciated."

By all means, have a gunsmith vet it.

[mike campbell]

Hi Tom!

You weren't here when I started typing. Apparently, it took me 20 minutes to post and I use one finger on each hand.

[nca225]

"

By all means, have a gunsmith vet it.

And you mean that as just as a matter of course and not for the issue I described, which isn't really an issue at all...

-Chris

[mike campbell]

Chris,

Yes. The issue you described is not an issue. Didn't want you to take that as an "all is well." May be other issues we don't know about.

[MARSHFELLOW]

Mike,

Your reply was much more informative..as always. I went for the short & sweet. I'm not too good with typed technical explainations, especially with my very limited gumsmithing skills or lack there-of.

See ya in a couple days.

tjw

[LVAKA362]

I've got an "A" grade 20 ga. that lettered in 1939. It is the same way. My gunsmith told me it was okay the way it is. That was just the way it was fitted at the time. The letter also states in was one of the last 50 graded 20 ga. guns made.
Alan

[nca225]

Much thanks to those who responded. Its great that someone who is just getting into Foxes can find such useful info on a friendly board. Each time I visit and receive advice or feedback, I am more sure that I want to become a full AHFCA member and probably will do so this week when some accounts clear. As for the Sterly, it sold before I could jump on it, but nonetheless, what I learned was applicable to my other Utica Sterly as upon a closer examination I saw the same thing, but not so much as with the one I was interested in. Thanks again guys.

-Chris